Older Bolder Life

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vinaigrette

The Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Old School Broccoli Salad (Bacon and Pepitas!) with a Twist

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Now and again I’m reminded that so many of the great recipes we all enjoy today are really just updates of classics that have been around for decades (or longer); today’s Old School Broccoli Salad (Bacon and Pepitas!) with a Twist is a perfect example.

Though the details are a bit fuzzy, I remember as a young child decades ago turning my nose up at a fresh broccoli salad prepared by my Ma-Ma (maw maw, maternal grandmother) at her beach house on the Texas coast.

She was a GREAT old-style, Texas coastal cook – she could work wonders with fresh shrimp, fish, and crab, and spent many an hour slaving over a blistering gas stove in the un-air conditioned kitchen cranking out meals for the clan that always seemed to be in attendance.

I’m sure her broccoli salad (with a classic mayo or Miracle Whip based dressing) was damned tasty as well, though to my 6 or 7 year old mind at the time, it was worth a hard-fought battle to avoid even touching it, much less eating it. We didn’t eat fresh broccoli back in the day around our house, and the frozen blocks of broccoli that were available back in the day didn’t convert many broccoli skeptics around our dinner table.

Fresh broccoli salad still showed up on the buffet tables of my youth at family, friend, and church gatherings, and I’m sure somewhere along the way I’m mustered up the courage to try some (probably to please some girlfriend’s mother or aunt); the dish otherwise stayed off our radar until years later.

Living in San Antonio during graduate school was an eye-opening experience in so many ways, including the burgeoning foodie culture there. As Texas is today, San Antonio was a melting pot of a variety of food cultures and traditions, and among those were some great classic Texas barbecue sides – including updated broccoli salads.

These were still largely mayo-based, but included toasted nuts (often pepitas or pecans, red onions, bacon, and raisins, dried cranberries, or even dried peaches from Fredericksburg.

Over the years we found ourselves subbing in a mustardy or balsamic based vinaigrette for the classic mayo dressing, and have finally settled on this mustard-based version as our standby.

Several thoughts on the dressing – I usually end up using half avocado oil and half good EVOO for the oils, and we find that while any vinegar works here, the combination of apple cider vinegar and red wine vinegar is our favorite. Likewise use any mustard you want, classically it would have to be Dijon, though I’ve been using a coarse, spicy mustard of late with this recipe and it’s incredibly tasty.

The recipe is written to make a big batch, we usually eat it all the day it’s made, but this is one of those rare salads that gets better over the next day or two.

1 and 1/2 pounds broccoli florets, chopped
1/2 cup* toasted pepitas (almonds, sun flower seeds, pecans, etc)
1/2 cup* red onion, chopped fine
1/2 cup* crispy bacon, chopped medium (3-4 slices)
1/2 cup* dried tart cherries or cranberries
Optional
1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, cut into thin slices
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced or grated coarsely
(*or more)

Dressing (see note above)
1/4 cup avocado oil
1/4 cup EVOO (the good stuff)
3-4 tbsp good vinegar (ACV, red wine vinegar, etc)
1-2 tbsp Dijon mustard
1-2 tbsp good honey or maple syrup
1-2 large garlic clove (minced or pressed)
2-3 tsp good fresh ground pepper
1/2 – 1 tsp fine sea salt

Toast the pepitas, and cook, cool, and chop the bacon.

Prep the vegetables and place in a large bowl, add the optional dried fruit, nuts, and bacon.

Mixed all dressing ingredients in a small bowl or lidded jar, then whisk / shake until well combined and emulsified. Taste and adjust for acid/vinegar, mustard, sweet, and salt.

Pour the dressing over the vegetables in the bowl, stirring to mix well, evenly distributing all the goodies and coating them evenly with the dressing. Chill for at least 30 minutes before giving the salad a good stir at service.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Cheesy Brisket Peppers w Shallot Vinaigrette

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I don’t know about you, but this time of year we’re feasting three or four days every week on delights from the grill or smoker.

We had a rainy and surprisingly cool May and early June here in North Texas (northward of 17 inches of rain in about 5 weeks in our neighborhood), but full on Texas summer has arrived in its hot-as-blazes glory over the past ten days or so.

These hot, steamy days were made for grilling or smoking proteins outside, and we’re forever on the hunt for nifty side dishes to serve alongside.

Having lived for many years under the bright Texas sun, my wife and I have a deep and abiding love for great Tex Mex, but dammit, it’s not the healthiest cuisine on the planet by a long shot. I in particular enjoy a great chile relleno though haven’t eaten the deep fried, classically prepared version in years.

A few weeks back I was basically whining to my friend Chef Libby in Austin about that very thing when she fired me a pic of a commercial grill covered with over 100 of these Cheesy Brisket Peppers she’d recently cooked for an event in Austin. Libby’s advice was that they can play either as the main event for a dinner, or make a great side dish when there’s a grilled or smoked protein as the centerpiece.

She’d sourced the recipe concept from Bon Appetite, and readily admitted their shallot vinaigrette was amazingly good on the roasted peppers (and lots of other stuff), though the addition of some smokey, chopped Texas brisket to the peppers was her call.

And what a great call that simple addition of a few tablespoons of brisket was.

Libby does these over live fire or in the oven; having just added a pellet grill to our home arsenal, I’m doing a batch of these on the Traeger on Saturday for friends coming over, though the peppers imaged in the post today were done in the over (easy peasy to do by the way).

These provide a ton of taste and visual appeal for the minimal effort involved, and you’ll want to make extra shallot vinaigrette too – it’s damned good.

2 medium shallots, sliced thinly lengthwise
1/4 C red wine vinegar
1 and 1/2 tsp sugar (optional)
1 tsp kosher salt, more to taste
1/4 cup EVOO or avocado oil

4 Anaheim or New Mexico chiles, cut in half lengthwise, seeds and inner membranes removed
1 tbsp EVOO or avocado oil

1/2 cup (more or less) chopped brisket or protein of your choice (optional)
1/2 pound pepper Jack cheese, cut in to 1/2-inch cubes
Fresh ground pepper

Optional:
2 garlic cloves, grated fine
Chopped pickled jalapeño pepper slices, diced fine

Combine the first five ingredients for the vinaigrette and set aside.

Prep the chiles and preheat the oven to 475 or fire the broiler (or even the grill). Drizzle the peppers with a tbsp of oil, dust with good salt and fresh ground pepper, and place cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake/broil until skins begin to blister and the peppers soften, 5 minutes under the broiler and perhaps 6-7 in the hot oven.

Remove from the oven, turn over (tongs!), and spoon in a tbsp or so of the optional protein or chopped jalapeños if you’ve chosen to use them (we used chopped brisket in the pics there), then divide the cubed cheese among the peppers. Top with the grated garlic if desired.

Return to the oven/broiler and bake/broil until the cheese has melted and is beginning to brown (4-5 minutes in the oven, 3 or so under the broiler).

Remove from the oven, plate, and drizzle the shallot vinaigrette over; season to taste with more good salt and fresh ground pepper.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Back Pocket Balsamic Vinaigrette

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One of my most beloved mentors taught my family many a worthy lesson that we’ve incorporated into our routine over the years. One of his favorites lessons had to do with hospitality, both providing and receiving gestures of hospitality, and he taught it using what he called his back pocket pancake recipe.

Without going into the long winded story that Ed would inevitably tell whenever the topic came up, his principle points were that hospitality is an art that takes repetition and practice to do well, and that when a guest in someones home, you needed to graciously accept the gift of hospitality extended you and offer a kind, and thankful, gesture in return.

One of the ways he did so was via what he called his back pocket pancake recipe; despite possessing a smart phone with more computing power than on the Apollo spacecraft, he always carried in his wallet a dog-eared and well-worn piece of paper upon which he’d scrawled the recipe for a delicious buttermilk pancake recipe. He used to boast that he’d pulled the recipe out and made pancakes for his various hosts on five different continents over the years.

I still carry an image of his original recipe on my phone, and have taken to carrying a set of “back pocket” recipes with me where ever I travel, though I favor salad dressing recipes instead of buttermilk pancakes.

My reasoning is pretty damned simple; most people don’t take the time to stir together simple yet tasty – and healthy – salad dressings at home, and these salad dressings can pull double duty as marinades and / or slathers for grilled meats and vegetables.

The two back pocket dressing recipes I reach for most often are this very Back Pocket Balsamic Vinaigrette and probably our house favorite, this nifty Chile Lime Vinaigrette.

This balsamic dressing recipe is a cinch to whisk or shake together, uses ingredients almost everyone has in the pantry and fridge, and tastes like a million bucks. A couple of nights ago we were pressed for time one evening, and a quick recipe of this dressing made a simple baby spinach and bacon salad feel (and taste) like a date night meal fit for a king.

Three quick thoughts on ingredients – one, use a good quality, aged balsamic (avoiding ones with added sweeteners, caramel color additives, etc); aged balsamic vinegars develop sweetness naturally and you might not feel the need to add honey (or the sweetener of your choice) at all – we usually don’t.

Two, recognizing that the classic formula for a vinaigrette used to be four parts oil to one part vinegar, we prefer this recipe closer to a 2:1 ratio; experiment yourself and adjust. And three, play around with various mustards too – we love this recipe with a spicy, rustic, Creole-style mustard (like Zatarains).

By the way, we prefer the texture and viscosity of the dressing when it’s shaken or whisked together, using a blender to combine makes for a bit “stiffer” dressing.

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar
2-3 tsp dijon or whole grain mustard
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 tsp good sea salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper (fine)
1/2 to 3/4 cup good EVOO

Optional
1/2 tsp ground dried thyme
1 small shallot, minced
2 tbsp honey

Combine the vinegar, mustard, minced garlic, salt, and pepper in a small mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Whisk in the oil until the dressing is fully emulsified and smooth; you can combine in a blender – you’ll find it’s a little thicker (we prefer the hand-whisked consistency).

Another nifty trick for mixing this one is simply to combine all the ingredients in a small jar with a tight fitting lid and then shake, shake, shake until well combined.

Cheers.

the Older Bolder Life Salad Monday: Curry Vinaigrette

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We’re always on the lookout for interesting and flavorful vinaigrettes, not only for the obvious use as salad dressing, but as a quick dip or drizzle for proteins and vegetables, and even for folding into homemade avocado oil mayo to fancy things in the spirit of a high-brow, flavored aioli.

I’ve shared recently that we’ve also been on something of a curry blitz of late now that the weather has finally cooled off here in North Texas, and this Curry Vinaigrette has caught my wife’s eye in particular.

Admittedly the tablespoon (or a tad less) of curry powder sounds like a lot – it is – but the acids (vinegar of your choice below and the lemon juice) really balance this dressing out nicely, as do the garlic and dijon mustard notes. By the way, I’ve made this using a coarse-grind Creole type mustard and it was delicious as well.

Given the use of fresh garlic this dressing should be used within a week of making it; ours is always gone within a day or two!

1/2 cup avocado or good olive oil
1 tbsp (scant) good fresh curry powder

3 tbsp apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar, your choice
2 garlic cloves, minced or grated
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp good Dijon mustard
A grind or two of fresh ground pepper
Good salt to taste

To get started, bring the curry powder and your oil of choice to a gentle simmer over medium heat in a small saucepan, then remove from heat and cool.

When the oil has cooled, combine your vinegar of choice, the lemon juice, the prepped garlic, and the Dijon in your trusty blender, then stream in the curry oil (with the motor running of course) to make a smooth, thick emulsion. Add the salt and pepper, adjust to taste, and go to it.

Will keep in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Salad Dressing Wednesday: Charred Scallion Dressing

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Here’s a quick and easy Charred Scallion salad dressing that plays well either warm or chilled, and offers an added flavor boost from a quick char of the scallions greens (flavor impact – huge, effort required – almost nothing).

Our friend Chef Libby happened to mention this dressing in passing during a conversation a few weeks ago; she was actually talking about (with enthusiasm) how much fun they’ve been having in her catering kitchen roasting late season vegetables and serving them up with a variety of dressings, drizzles, and vinaigrettes, both for the flavor and to add a bit of flair and interest.

We’ve long been fans of the lowly scallion or green onion around our camp, and often find ourselves throwing a few on the grill regardless of what protein is sizzling away right beside them.

This dressing comes together in a just a few minutes and uses ingredients you’ll almost always have on hand in the kitchen.

I just served this over cauliflower florets we roasted under and alongside Friday’s slow roasted gojuchang chicken – wow was that tasty.

3 medium scallions (green onions)
7 tbsp EVOO or avocado oil (divided, see below)
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp good Dijon mustard
1 tbsp avocado or olive oil mayo (use this one)
Good salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Trim and clean the scallions, then divide the white parts from the green. Finely chop the white sections and place in a small bowl.

Now finely chop the green sections, then heat 1 tbsp of your oil of choice in a small skillet (medium heat). Sauté the green pieces until lightly charred and crispy, add the chopped white pieces.

Now whisk in the lemon juice, rice vinegar, mustard, and mayo; season lightly with the salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in the remaining oil until a smooth emulsion forms; taste and season again for salt and pepper.

Dress that salad or drizzle over the veg of the day, and go to it.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Salad Sunday 16 December: Apple Cider Vinaigrette

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I’ve been on a mission lately to deconstruct and recreate at home one of our favorite salads from an eatery here in DFW called Whiskey Cake; the salad is their Bacon and Egg salad, featuring shaved raw Brussel sprouts and kale, with a handful of chopped cherry tomatoes, crumbled crispy bacon, a very thin apple slice here and there, peppadew peppers, and crumbled blue cheese.

The salad is amazing, and is pulled together with a surprisingly tart, simple vinaigrette. I’d been debating as to whether it was champaign vinegar or apple cider vinegar based; several weeks ago I finally pestered our waitress to ask for me, and to my surprise one of the chef’s came out and chatted about it with us (very nicely played by the Whiskey Cake team, and it was apple cider vinegar).

We came home and started experimenting that night, playing with the classic 1:2 vs 1:3 vinaigrette acid:oil ratios, and kept coming back interestingly to Zatarain’s Creole mustard both for flavor and as an emulsifier. (For whatever reason chemically, I’m getting the best results making avocado oil mayo with this mustard too – in terms of mayo texture (emulsification) and taste.)

We think this is better with a small shallot very finely chopped and mixed in, along with a bit of Cajun spice. Chef Libby has played with this one, and prefers it with a bit of raw honey and just a whisper of cinnamon. Play around with this one and see what you think.

I’ll be posting a recipe for the bacon and egg salad here in the next few weeks…

1/2 cup avocado oil or extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup + 1 tbsp raw apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1 tbsp (generous) Zatarain’s Creole mustard, or whole grain Dijon
1 garlic clove, grated or finely minced
1/4 to 1/2 tsp sweet paprika
Good salt and pepper to taste

Optional:
1 small-medium shallot, finely chopped
1-2 tbsp good raw honey or maple syrup, start with one
1/4 tsp (or more) of your favorite Creole/Cajun spice mix OR
1/8 tsp cinnamon

Making this one is a walk in the park. Combine the first 8 ingredients along with whatever optional goodies in a small mason jar (lidded container of choice) and shake until emulsified. You don’t have to go crazy here, shake until well combined and homogenous, then taste again and adjust for salt, pepper, and sweetness IF you’ve chosen to sweeten (see above).

Enjoy.