Older Bolder Life

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TexMex

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Chorizo Number 2 (or Tex Mex Chorizo)

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During these long, dark days of winter (some might argue that’s both a figurative as well as a literal descriptor) we’ve been experimenting a bit once again with making sausages of various types and flavors in the kitchen at home.

There are a host of reasons to do so, including absolute control of sausage ingredients (quality and flavors), economics, curiosity, it just being damned fun when you’re in the mood, among others.

In a quick aside, if you’re not grinding meat at home, consider picking up an inexpensive home grinder (the one imaged here ran us about $70 a couple of years ago); it won’t be powerful enough to process the three elk you and your buddies harvested this year, but for routine, lighter-end home use, these little guys are easy to store, set up, and clean.

To prove the point, when making this batch of chorizo, I ground a 12-lb boneless pork shoulder, including set up and cleaning, in less than 25 minutes (not counting about 75 minutes in the freezer to tighten up the meat before grinding).

We happen to like really well made and flavored chorizo now and again, and I’ve written about it before here on the blog (excerpt below) –

…Having spent many a year growing up (and schooling) here in the Lone Star state, we’ve been fans of good chorizo around our camp for some time, having fiddled with chorizo recipes off and on now for well over a decade.

Sourcing good chorizo can be a challenge in that many if not most of the commercially prepared and marketed versions (of bulk chorizo, not the cured Spanish version) are incredibly greasy and contain parts of critters that you’d never ponder eating if you really knew they had been tossed in the grinder…

…And like most comfort foods prepared with care and attention, using the freshest ingredients, this version of chorizo is very likely nothing like you’ve tasted before and much more akin to the artisanal sausages (think Bruce Adell’s) you’ve thrown on the grill.  Even better, this one is child’s play simple, and you can tinker with spices to make you and your clan happy…

Here’s another chorizo recipe that we’ve come to adopt as our main go to, given the depth of flavors that come from roasting actual dried chiles for the spice base; around our camp we call this one our Tex Mex Chorizo (or Chorizo Number 2). The chiles add an amazing depth of flavor, and we find the hints of cinnamon, allspice, and cloves add interest and bit of nuance that’s very, very tasty.

As with all sausages you craft at home, this one can be formed into patties, crumbled, or even stuff into casings; we usually freeze in smallish patties and crumble if needed (like for next weeks loaded huevos rancheros.

2 pounds ground pork
6-7 dried guajillo chiles, cleaned, seeded, and stemmed
5 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 medium onion, diced small
1/3 cup apple cider or red wine vinegar (try it with both)
1 tbsp salt
1-2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
1 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp cayenne
1/4 tsp cinnamon, optional
1/4 tsp allspice, optional
1/4 tsp ground cloves, optional

To get started, toast the chiles in a hot, dry skillet until puffed and fragrant (won’t take long); add enough water to cover chiles and set aside for 30-40 minutes.

When softened, place the chiles, onion, garlic and vinegar in your trusty blender or food processor and blend until smooth; you may need to add either additional vinegar or some of the chile soaking liquid if too thick (think tomato sauce).

Now let’s make some chorizo; place the ground pork in a mixing bowl, add the chile paste and the rest of the ingredients. Mix well, and this is probably best done with your hands. The first time you make this chorizo, fry up a tablespoon or two in a skillet to check the spices and adjust to suit you.

Cook this anyway you please – fry it up loose for breakfast tacos, add in some goodies (poblanos and mushrooms in the image below for a loaded huevos rancheros), shape into patties for the stovetop or grill or even stuff into casings. This recipe freezes like a charm, though we’ve found it’s best to shape in to patties before freezing.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Grilled Tacos al Pastor

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Working from the premise that my clan hasn’t really met a taco they didn’t like, over the past couple of months we’ve been on a(n) (intermittent) quest to perfect a recipe for Tacos al Pastor.

This culinary journey started after a trip to see family in San Antonio and a venture downtown to a friend’s favorite hole-in-the-wall eatery where we enjoyed an ambrosial taco feast lunch one still-too-damn-hot early October afternoon.

My lovely wife was particularly taken with the Tacos al Pastor, roughly translated “shepherd style”, which prompted a bevy of research including a couple of focused chats with friend Chef Libby in Austin, who like us resonates mightily with the chile-infused flavor palate of the American Southwest and Mexico.

She reminded me of the history involved here – what most of us refer to as tacos al pastor is loosely based on the lamb shawarma that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico during the 18th century. History authorities suggest these immigrants were mainly Christians (i.e. the Maronites) who had no religious dietary restrictions regarding pork consumption, and of course brought with them an affinity for shawarma from back home.

Food historians suggests that as they and their progeny began to adopt culinary influences from Mexico, and with the eventual advent of a more widespread Mexican restaurant industry in the 1960s, the taco al pastor we know today was born.

In it’s most classic form, tacos al pastor has traditionally featured pork marinated in a slather based on dried chiles, pineapple, onion, achiote paste, and a handful of different spices, then stacked and cooked on a rotating spit, eventually being sliced off in a fashion akin to gyros from Greek cuisine, providing a perfect crust and tender underlying meat in every morsel.

Of course there are regional variations today, and most of us – and many restaurants / street vendors – don’t have a rotating spit available to prepare our tacos al pastor.

This recipe is one that Libby has crafted to suit the palates of her staff and clients in Austin, a place with a fairly solid understanding of tacos (understatement of the year), certainly from a Tex Mex perspective. The beauty of recipes like this one is you can certainly vary the chile profile to suit your own tastes (for example, I think this is better with 2-3 dried chipotles thrown in, along with a bit of cumin), and this one finishes really well right on your trusty grill over a slow fire.

For those who indulge in the occasional classic corn-based taco, these are divine with the Quick Grilled Pineapple Habanero Salsa from last week, and they’re damned good on one of the gluten free tortillas available today (we still favor the Siete brand around our campfire).

Pro Tip: Trim most of but not all of the fat off the pork shoulder, you want some of that fat to render down as you cook these low and slow over your fire.

3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, sliced roughly 3/4-inch thick

10 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
3 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
2-3 chiles de arbol, stemmed and seeded
2-3 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded, optional

1/2 fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, roughly chopped
1/2 onion, roughly chopped
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 cup distilled white vinegar
3 tbsp achiote paste
3 ounces kosher salt
1 tbsp ground cumin
Optional: 2-4 tbsp sugar in marinade

Gluten free or corn tortillas if you’re going full out taco

Prep the pork and set aside.

Bring 2 cups of water to a gentle; pour over the prepped chiles in a bowl, cover, set aside to steam and soak for 30 minutes.

Now puree the chiles and soaking liquid, chopped pineapple, chopped onion, garlic cloves, vinegar, achiote paste, sugar if using, and the salt until smooth; pour over the pork, making sure each slice of pork is coated. Cover and chill overnight (at least 6 hours).

Fire the grill; build a two-zone fire if using live fire or set your trusty gas grill to low.

Remove the pork slices from the marinade, gently shake off excess marinade, and slowly grill until the marinade is caramelized and slightly charred on each side and the pork is just cooked through, 9-11 minutes per side (remember, this is over a slow/low fire).

Pull the pork, let it rest for 7 to 10 minutes, when slice against the grain into 1/4-inch strips; build your tacos and top with the Grilled Pineapple Habanero Salsa from last week.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: (Primal) Texas Style Picadillo

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Growing up in the panhandle of Texas back in the day I had several friends whose families made picadillo routinely at home; we ate it in tacos, in big bowls over rice on cold, blustery days, in tortilla wraps, and even stirred into scrambled eggs now and again.

With the official transition to astrological fall this week, it’s time to begin to rotate some tasty soups, stews, chiles, and picadillo onto the menu.

Picadillo (according to the experts and food historians) claims its roots in a number of latin American countries, though a Filipino residency mate argued that his version from back home was the very best. Being from the Southwest and unabashedly heavily biased toward Tex-Mex and the hodge-podge of culinary history that makes up Texas cuisine, I tend to think of the picadillo we’re used to enjoying as a dish originating in Mexico and other countries on further south.

Picadillo is one of those simple, almost peasant foods that varies from region to region and family to family, and the version below should as always be considered a simple framework to start from.

We’ve tweaked the version I remember from days in the Panhandle to make it more Primal and healthy eating friendly, easy changes like grass-fed ground beef, healthier oil, and sweet potatoes instead of the classic russet. We also think it’s immeasurably better with just a bit of dried ground ancho chile powder in the skillet, and my favorite dish from years ago was dressed up a little with the addition of a handful of peas (though you’ll see raisins in a number of recipes floating around out there as well.

Don’t forget a bit of chopped cilantro, diced avocado, and a spritz of fresh lime juice at bare minimum to finish this one off…

1 lb grass-fed ground beef
2 tbsp avocado oil, divided
1-2 sweet potatoes of choice, peeled, 3/4-inch pieces
1 medium onion, small dice
1 medium poblano, stemmed, seeded, small dice
2-3 plum tomatoes, cored, chopped
3-4 garlic cloves, minced
1-2 serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded, finely chopped OR
1-2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, finely chopped
1 and 1/2 tsp kosher salt or 1 tbsp Diamond Crystal salt
1-2 tsp ground cumin
1-2 tsp ground dried ancho pepper (optional)
1 tsp freshly ground pepper
2 cups chicken stock or broth
1/2 cup peas, optional

To Finish
1/3 cup chopped cilantro, leaves and small stems
Sliced radishes
Diced fresh avocado
Crumbled cotija cheese (feta plays well too)
Fresh lime juice

Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; now sauté the beef until browned but not fully cooked through (6-7 minutes). Remove the beef to a small bowl using a slotted spoon.

Back the heat down to medium, add the rest of the oil, and quickly sauté the potatoes until just beginning to brown (3-4 minutes); remove to a small plate and set aside.

Now add the onions, diced peppers, garlic, salt, cumin, and black and ancho peppers, stirring occasionally, and cook until the vegetables are just beginning to tenderize (4-5 minutes).

Add the beef (and any juices) back in, along with the stock and peas, and simmer for 15 minutes. Now add the potatoes back in, stir to mix, and simmer another 5-7 minutes. Now add the chopped tomatoes and simmer another 3-5 minutes.

You’ll know you’re there when the beef is fully cooked, the potatoes are just tender, and just about all of the liquid has evaporated off. Taste for salt and cumin, stir in the cilantro at service, and finish with whatever add-ons you have on hand.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Texican Skirt Steak Stir Fry

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This past week I’ve been chatting now and again with new friend Lucia about some of the great fusion cuisine we’ve both enjoyed lately down here in Texas.

Lucia hails originally from the Northeast, though recently lived in Houston while attending Rice University and she grew to love the amazing food culture in Houston during her years there. Her stories of enjoying some of the hole in the wall places serving up Korean and Tex Mex fusion dishes particularly resonated with my wife and I, as we’ve spent time in Houston as well enjoying some of the same foods. To be perfectly honest, my wife and I have enjoyed the Asian influence on Texas cuisine for years now, including the Vietnamese and Thai influences that have been simmering under the Long Star for decades.

That said, we’re big fans of skirt steak, given its deep beefy flavor, quick cook whether grilled or sautéed, attractive price point, and the fact it is most often used to make the classic fajita / taco of choice in these parts.

We’ve been playing around with several quick stir fries using skirt, and have finally settled this one, weaving together an Asian-inspired spice and seasoning array with classic Texas-styled fajitas, including sweet onions (1015s in these parts), poblanos, and a couple of red jalapeños for pop and color.

Slicing the skirt (against the grain of course) thinly makes for a quick cook; use high heat, cook quickly, and get a nice sear on the skirt before removing it to give the vegetables time to soften and gain some color.

As always, consider this a base recipe to work from, and throw in whatever suits you – red bells or Mediterraneo Dulce peppers for instance – and there’s plenty of room to adjust the spices as well, though the combination below is amazingly tasty.

1 and 1/2 lb. skirt steak, trimmed, sliced across the grain into 1/4-inch (or less) thick strips
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 and 1/2 tsp + 1 tbsp tamari or soy sauce
1 and 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 and 1/2 tsp granulated sugar (optional)

2 medium sweet onions, trimmed, sliced into 1/2-inch thick rounds
1-2 medium poblanos, stemmed, seeded, sliced into 1/2-inch thick rounds
1-2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, sliced into 1/4-inch thick rounds (optional)
3-inch piece of ginger, peeled, sliced into thin rounds

1 tbsp avocado oil (perhaps just a bit more)
2-4 tsp fresh ground black pepper
3 tbsp grass-fed unsalted butter (in several pieces
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Combine the sliced skirt steak with the sesame oil, 1.5 tsp tamari or soy sauce, salt, and sugar; stir to combine well, cover and set aside for 30 minutes or so (if longer, throw it in the fridge).

Meanwhile, prep the vegetables and gather (mise en place) the rest of the ingredients.

Heat your large skillet over high heat, add the oil, then spread the marinated meat in a single layer and sauté undisturbed (DON’T turn the meat!) for 2-3 minutes until it begins to brown around the edges. Now stir the steak, turning to brown the uncooked side for another minutes. Now remove the steak to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium-high and add the sliced onions and poblanos, tossing now and again until they being to soften (5-6 minutes or more); add the sliced jalapeños and ginger and cook another 2 minutes.

Now return the meat to the pan, add 1/3 cup water and the fresh ground pepper, stir well, and cook another 2-3 minutes until the vegetables are as soft as you’d like and the ingredients have a glossy coating.

Remove from the heat, stir in the butter pieces, lemon juice, and remaining tamari or soy sauce until all ingredients are well-coated. Taste and adjust for salt, then serve hot and go to it.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Salsa Monday: Quick Grilled Tomato and Jalapeño Table Salsa

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On our run last week to see our kids and their families in Montana last week, we dined one evening in Missoula at a wonderful eatery downtown called TopHat.

Both my daughter and had tacos – yep, I enjoy a corn tortilla now and again and remain in nutritional ketosis 99% of the time – that were served with delicious and freshly prepared house salsas.

One salsa had been prepared using grilled tomatoes, onions, and peppers; roasting these ingredients over live fire adds a depth of flavor and smokiness you can’t get any other way, and sent me to the kitchen (and grill) to experiment when back home.

Of course influenced by our Texican roots, my wife and I think this is much better with a few tablespoons of cilantro thrown in, with a generous spritz of lime juice as well.

Next time you’re firing the grill to sear your favorite proteins, throw this salsa together and see what you think. It’s so tasty, and so simple to prepare, you’ll be folding it into your rotation this summer (and likely through the fall and winter as well – this is a great way to flavor up less than prime tomatoes too).

6 medium tomatoes
1 large sweet or white onion, cut into 1/2-inch slices
2 medium jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, halved
1-3 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro, optional
1-2 tsp good salt
Spritz of fresh lime juice, optional
Olive or avocado oil, brushed on before grilling

Fire the grill.

Halve three tomatoes, slice the onion, and prep the peppers. Brush all with a bit of the oil, and grill, turning now and again, until slightly to moderately charred and the onion and peppers have softened. Remove from the grill and cool for 5-10 minutes.

Core and seed the other three tomatoes, dice the flesh into 1/4 to 1/3-inch cubes and throw in a medium-sized bowl. Dice the cooled roasted tomatoes, onions, and jalapeños, add to the bowl, then stir in the salt, cilantro, and a spritz of fresh lime juice. Taste and adjust for salt and lime.

Best served fresh, this will hold a day or two tightly covered in the fridge as well.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast 30 November: Puerco Guisada

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As we turn the corner from late fall into early winter, here’s one to help you beat back the crush of winter’s hand – Puerco Guisada, a south Texas / Mexico inspired take on the spicy ‘meat in gravy’ stew (carne guisada) gracing every worthy taco stand from Austin to the southern border in Texas.

One might certainly argue this dish is traditionally made with beef (carne guisada) – and you can certainly do that by exchanging the pork with a cut of chuck or bottom round – though the pork version seems a tad lighter and sweeter to us.

This puerco guisada is another one of those recipes that are so simple they’re child’s play, thought there are a couple of caveats to note. Flavors are dramatically improved by actually browning the meat in the oil up front; if you overcrowd the meat it steams and doesn’t brown. Browning in two or three batches works wonders and leaves a hoard of those tasty browned ‘pan crispins’ behind to scrape up and flavor the stew.

The other caveat pertains to the peppers; jalapenos and serranos can very dramatically in their heat level. Cut off a small chip of the pepper and touch it to your tongue to get an idea about the heat; the last two jalapenos I picked out of the bin were searingly hot, so we left out the serranos on that batch (even though they add a slightly different heat and flavor pattern).

This Puerco Guisada makes for a killer bowl of spicy goodness standing alone (with a few toppings of course) and it makes a mouth-watering taco or burrito too. We’ve even been known to use it to make a puerco guisada huevos rancheros for breakfast when special company is in the house.

4ish pounds of pork shoulder or loin, trimmed, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
4 tbsp avocado oil
1 large sweet onion, diced
2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, and diced
2 serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded, and diced
6 garlic cloves, minced
14-oz can diced tomatoes with liquid or 3 fresh tomatoes with seeds and core, diced
2 tbsp ground cumin
2 tbsp good chili powder
2 tsp (preferably Mexican) oregano
1/2 cup chopped cilantro or more
2 bay leaves
2 cups of water
1 bottle cerveza (Corona or Negro Modelo for the spirit of things)
Optional: 1 tbsp masa if needed for thickening

In your trusty dutch oven, heat 1/3 of the oil over medium high heat and brown 1/3 of the meat; remove to a plate and repeat to brown all the meat.

Add a splash of oil if needed, and sauté the onions and peppers until soft; then add the garlic, and cook, stirring now and again, for another couple of minutes.

Now add the pork back to the dutch oven, along with the tomatoes, cumin, chili powder, oregano, bay leaves, water and beer. Stir until well combined, turn up the heat and bring to a gentle boil, stirring frequently.

Now turn down to a simmer and let it go low and slow for 4 to 5 hours, stirring once an hour; you’ll notice the pork begins to tenderize and break down a bit, thickening the mixture as the water cooks off. (You can always add the masa at the end to thicken it more, though we never do.)

Traditionally this would be served steaming hot in a big bowl, sprinkled with grated cheese, maybe a few chopped fresh peppers, cilantro, and fresh or pickled onions. The possibilities are endless as noted above.

Enjoy.