Older Bolder Life

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The Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Texas Red Jalapeño and Chipotle Harissa

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A couple of months ago I was given the pleasure of writing a short piece for a fly fishing magazine based out of South Africa – The Mission – detailing a version of this Texas Red Jalapeño and Chipotle Harissa we’ve been playing with for a while.

I shared with The Mission team –

Exceptional sauces and salsas are some of life’s simplest and most valuable additions to the table, making good foods great as they deliver layers of flavor and spice, most often as the best supporting actor and not stealing the scene from the star of the show.

Texas offers a fascinating and eclectic food culture, melding influences from early settlers hailing from across the world, but leaning heavily on Mexican, Germanic, and Irish roots, with a healthy scoop of Vietnamese and Asian influences thrown into the mix as well over the past several decades.

Distracted for years by delicious salsa verdes, fresh table salsas, and more guacamoles than I can count, of late we’ve been playing with different harissa recipes, including this one featuring a pepper unique to these parts – the Dulce Mediterraneo, for which you can readily substitute with a red bell pepper.

Harissa, a Tunisian hot chili paste, makes just about everything better, from the morning’s scrambled or fried eggs, to seafood, lamb, pork, beef, or wild game hot from the grill.

‘Nuff said.

2 large red dulce Mediterraneo peppers
1/4 pound red jalapeño chiles
1-2 dried chipotle pepper(s), soaked for 10-15 minutes

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, whole
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, whole
2 teaspoons caraway seeds, whole
4 large cloves garlic

2 tablespoons organic tomato paste
1/2-1 teaspoon salt
1/4 to 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil (additional for storage)

Blacken the skins of the dulce mediterraneo peppers (over an open flame, under a broiler, etc), place in a paper or plastic bag and let steam for 20 minutes or so. When cooled, stem, seed, peel, and place in a blender.

Stem the jalapeños (Fresno or green jalapeños in a pinch) and place in the blender.

Toast the coriander, cumin, and caraway seeds in a dry nonstick skillet over medium heat for 4-5 minutes until fragrant, then coarsely grind in a mortar and pestle and add to the blender. Toast the whole garlic cloves in the same pan until browned (lightly), then add to blender.

Finally add the roasted peppers, tomato paste, soaked chipotles, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 cup olive oil to the blender, then blend until roughly pureed (you want some texture in the sauce). Add olive oil if needed to thin, and adjust for salt.

Pour into a glass pint jar and top with a thin layer of olive oil to store in the fridge.

Enjoy.

The Older Bolder Life Vegetable Wednesday: Crispy Verde Cauliflower Rice Pilaf

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We’ve come to really enjoy deeply and creatively flavored cauliflower rice this year, like this Ginger Pecan Cauliflower Rice Pilaf or this Asian Fried Cauliflower Rice. Buying pre-riced, frozen cauliflower makes it even easier, and there are several organic brands widely available (I’ve been buying of late from Costco) which are consistently good and quite tasty.

When a version of this Crispy Verde Cauliflower Rice Pilaf showed up in my feed from Bon Appetit recently, I wondered if there was a way to get riced cauliflower crispy, and set to experimenting a bit (and pestering my friend Chef Libby in Austin). As you cauliflower rice fans know, it does tend to release moisture when cooking, and if you’re not attentive to time and heat, can make your cauliflower rice dish seem a bit soggy.

The trick is to sauté this cauliflower prep twice, once to dry it out a bit, then you rest it on a paper towel-lined plate before crisping it in oil a second time.

This recipe is wonderfully tasty, given the multiple herbs and peppers called for in the sauce; use any combination of green herbs you care too. We’re big cilantro fans, so I skewed this recipe that way, and be generous with the serranos too – the sauce may taste too spicy at first when tasting it alone, but the cauliflower really mellows out the final flavors, as do the two different peas and the green onions.

Note the source recipe used a couple of tablespoons of miso; if you’re avoiding soy, use your favorite umami-rich substitute (I usually reach for tamari, coconut aminos, or tahini). Chef Libby argues that white miso’s taste is so unique, it’s hard to sub, and it does contribute to the final flavors…

Finally, the roasted pistachios add a flavor and texture you don’t often come across, and good feta is always tasty. Don’t be put off by a long set of instructions below, this one’s pretty easy and actually comes together pretty quickly. And wow, this one’s very good.

1 pound bag frozen riced cauliflower OR 1 medium cauliflower, riced

1/2 cup raw pistachios

2 cups cilantro (see note)
1 cup basil leaves
1 cup mint and/or dill
2-4 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, roughly chopped
1/3 cup + 3 tbsp avocado or EV olive oil
Juice of 2 fresh limes (1/4 cup)
2 tbsp white miso or your sub of choice
2 tbsp water
1/2 tsp good salt

3/4 cup good feta, crumbled
6-8 ounces sugar snap peas, thinly sliced on diagonal
4-5 green onions, thinly sliced on diagonal
1/3 to 1/2 cup golden raisins (optional, see note)

1 cup fresh shelled or frozen peas (optional)
Additional good salt to taste

Fire the oven to 350 and toast the pistachios until nicely browned (5-7 minutes); cool, then roughly chop.

Now sauté the cauliflower in a dry nonstick skillet over medium-heat for 7-10 minutes, stirring occasionally. You’re not trying to brown it here, you’re cooking off some of the water in the cauliflower to dry it a bit. Remove to paper towel lined plate when the skillet dries out 7 or 8 minutes in.

Meanwhile, into the blender go the herbs, the chiles, 1/3 cup of your oil of choice, the lime juice, white miso (or sub of choice), water, and salt. Blend until smooth, and taste for salt and heat. You want this herb mixture to be spicy; the cauliflower tones it down, so you may need another pepper (or two).

Now wipe your skillet clean, add 2-3 tbsp of oil, and heat over medium-high heat until hot. Add the cauliflower back to the skillet, smoothing it out in a single layer and compressing a bit with a spatula. You’re goal is to crisp and brown the cauliflower here; after a minute or two turn the heat down to medium and DON’T stir for 6-8 minutes until it’s browning and getting crispy.

During the sauté process above, into a clean bowl go the sliced sugar snap peas and green onions (thinly sliced on a diagonal), the crumbled feta, the raisins if using, and the pistachios; toss gently to combine.

When the riced cauliflower is beginning to brown and crisp, add the peas, and cook for another couple of minutes until the peas are just tender.

Finally, stir the cauliflower rice into the vegetable and cheese mixture, stir in the herb drizzle, and toss to combine.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Salsa Monday: Quick Grilled Tomato and Jalapeño Table Salsa

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On our run last week to see our kids and their families in Montana last week, we dined one evening in Missoula at a wonderful eatery downtown called TopHat.

Both my daughter and had tacos – yep, I enjoy a corn tortilla now and again and remain in nutritional ketosis 99% of the time – that were served with delicious and freshly prepared house salsas.

One salsa had been prepared using grilled tomatoes, onions, and peppers; roasting these ingredients over live fire adds a depth of flavor and smokiness you can’t get any other way, and sent me to the kitchen (and grill) to experiment when back home.

Of course influenced by our Texican roots, my wife and I think this is much better with a few tablespoons of cilantro thrown in, with a generous spritz of lime juice as well.

Next time you’re firing the grill to sear your favorite proteins, throw this salsa together and see what you think. It’s so tasty, and so simple to prepare, you’ll be folding it into your rotation this summer (and likely through the fall and winter as well – this is a great way to flavor up less than prime tomatoes too).

6 medium tomatoes
1 large sweet or white onion, cut into 1/2-inch slices
2 medium jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, halved
1-3 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro, optional
1-2 tsp good salt
Spritz of fresh lime juice, optional
Olive or avocado oil, brushed on before grilling

Fire the grill.

Halve three tomatoes, slice the onion, and prep the peppers. Brush all with a bit of the oil, and grill, turning now and again, until slightly to moderately charred and the onion and peppers have softened. Remove from the grill and cool for 5-10 minutes.

Core and seed the other three tomatoes, dice the flesh into 1/4 to 1/3-inch cubes and throw in a medium-sized bowl. Dice the cooled roasted tomatoes, onions, and jalapeños, add to the bowl, then stir in the salt, cilantro, and a spritz of fresh lime juice. Taste and adjust for salt and lime.

Best served fresh, this will hold a day or two tightly covered in the fridge as well.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast 10 May: Shawarma Chicken with Tahini Yogurt Sauce

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As a family we’ve gravitated to big, bold flavors in most of the food we prepared at home over the years, embracing enthusiastically the various food cultures we’ve grown up with in Texas and the desert Southwest.

Several years ago our photojournalist daughter spent a week in Jordon on assignment, and she brought back some stunningly good olive oil and spice mixes, along with tall tales and images of meals eaten in the field and at some of the finest restaurants in the country.

She loved the shawarma there, and I’ve been tinkering around the edges with various shawarma recipes for months now, finally settling on this one. We most often reach for chicken thighs here, given their rich flavor and higher fat content, though you can of course substitute any protein you’d care to choose. The spice mix is delightful, though I often cheat the spices up a little, and the yogurt sauce is delicious, and has become one we reach for to serve with other grilled proteins as well as serve as a change-up-the-game salad dressing now and again too.

The chicken can of course be grilled, though the sheet pan, high-heat bake is a genius, quick, and easy prep that is simple enough for even a beginner in the kitchen. Cook extra, this one makes a great lunch (or breakfast) the next day or two.

2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp good salt
1 tsp ground coriander seed
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp fresh ground pepper
1/2 tsp cayenne
1/2 tsp cinnamon
4-5 tbsp olive or avocado oil
2 to 2 and 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs

For the sauce
1 and 1/2 cups full-fat yogurt
2 tbsp tahini
1/2 tsp finely grated garlic
1/2 tsp (or more) finely grated fresh lemon zest
5 tbsp fresh lemon juice, divided
2 tbsp (or more) fresh dill, chopped
2 tbsp (or more) fresh mint, chopped
Good salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

To Serve
Several romaine hearts, chopped
1/2 (or more) English hothouse cucumber, thinly sliced
5-6 ounces grape or cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced
Kalamata olives

Combine the seven spice ingredients with 3 tbsp of the oil; throw in the chicken and toss to coat. (Add a little more oil if needed). Let rest at room temperature while you heat the oven to 425.

Now bake the chicken in a single layer on a baking sheet for 15-17 minutes until browned with crispy edges (interior temp in the thickest thigh should be 165). Remove and let rest for 5 minutes.

While the chicken is baking, stir together the sauce, folding in the mint and dill last, and seasoning to taste with good salt and pepper. Prep the romaine, cucumber, tomatoes, and onion.

Traditionally this would be served in pitas; it’s even better thinly sliced over the salad, drizzled with the sauce. And the chicken is amazing cold.

Enjoy.

The Older Bolder Life Salad Monday: Red Pepper Cashew Dressing

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A friend recently dined at Lalito in NYC and fell in love with several of the nut-based salad dressings they offer there; she did a bit of investigating and charmed this ingredient list (since adjusted and tweaked) out of one of the staff.

This Red Pepper Cashew Dressing brings together several flavor combinations you don’t often find together, such as cashews and fish sauce and cashews and garlic for example, but it just works, and works really well.

Being long-time fans of a spicy Thai-styled peanut sauce for years, we like this one spiced up with the red pepper flakes, but you don’t have to go overboard with the heat. Leave out the honey if you wish, but it does add just a hint of sweetness that rounds out the flavor package nicely.

3/4 cup roasted, salted cashews/cashew pieces
6 tbsp avocado or mild olive oil
1/3 cup water (or just a bit more)
1-2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1 tsp good fish sauce
1 tsp honey
1 large garlic clove
Salt to taste

Add everything but the salt to your trusty blender or food processor, blend/process until smooth and creamy, noting that you may need just a bit more water.

Taste and adjust the seasonings, we nearly always add more salt and red pepper flakes.

Hold in the fridge if not using immediately.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Spicy Southern Sausage and Cheese Balls

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Growing up in the South, just about every holiday spent with extended family, or party with friends, included at least plate or platter of some version of these classic sausage cheese balls.

One of my grandmother’s (the scratch baker grandmother) recipe was something along the lines of classic Southern chef Vivian Howard’s; my other grandmother used the (gasp, cough, wheeze) Bisquick-based recipe still floating around out there today.

It didn’t matter, as kids we still stuffed our pockets with these little bite-sized delights and fought over the last two on the plate.

After moving to a primal | paleo food plan years ago, to be honest I’d never even thought about a gluten free, primally-oriented version of these until a friend recently asked me if I’d ever run across one as she was planning a party menu.

There are several good ones floating around, and this one isn’t all that different from many you’ll see, save for kicking the spices up quite a bit, and adding additional flavor with alliums and peppers. I’ve added a shallot (or green onions), finely diced, to sauté with the sausage, my grandmother’s dry mustard, cayenne, and red pepper flakes (or minced serranos), and even use Monterrey jack cheese occasionally to mix things up. (In the pic above, we used cheddar on the left and MJ on the right.)

Upping the coconut flour to 1/2 cup (a generous 1/2 cup) makes these a little more bready, though my wife prefers ‘em with less coconut flour. Another tip – portioning out with a cookie scoop (I used a No. 60, about a tbsp; made 7 rows of 5 balls, which just fit on a standard 1/2-sheet) make the prep easier and faster.

These are great for a quick snack and my lovely wife has been grabbing handful for a work lunch on the run.

1 pound spicy ground sausage
1 medium shallot, diced fine OR
2-3 green onions, thinly sliced

4 eggs
4 and 1/2 tbsp butter, melted
2 tbsp sour cream or softened cream cheese
1/3 to 1/2 cup coconut flour (generous measure, see note above)
1/2 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp good salt
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 to 1/2 tsp cayenne

2 cups freshly grated sharp cheddar or Monterrey jack cheese

Optional
Toasted red pepper flakes
1-2 minced serrano or jalapeno peppers

Sauté the sausage for several minutes, breaking it up into small pieces. As it’s beginning to brown, throw in the shallot or green onions. Brown the sausage well, and drain in a paper towel-lined bowl.

While the sausage is browning, melt the butter and set aside. Grate the cheese and line a baking sheet with parchment. Preheat the oven to 375.

Now combine the eggs, butter, sour cream/cream cheese, mustard, garlic powder, salt, baking powder, cayenne, and red pepper flakes or minced peppers; whisk to combine well. Now whisk in the coconut flour until well combined.

Stir in the sausage-onion mixture and the cheese until evenly distributed, then form into balls roughly 1-inch in diameter (I used a cookie scoop) and place on the lined baking sheet. Place fairly closely on the sheet in 7 rows of 5 and it’ll just fit a standard 1/2-sheet.

Bake for 16-18 minutes until slightly browned; cool and store in the fridge (should be good for a week or so, though they won’t last that long).

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Sauce Tuesday: Spicy Cilantro Pesto

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Here in the Southern tier of the country, the forecast is looking like a genuine turn to spring this week, and count us among those who couldn’t be happier grilling season officially opens now. (We grill year round here in North Texas, which really isn’t brag worthy as the weather is so mild, though we did year round in Montana for years, and that’s another story…).

Nifty grilled proteins call for interesting sauces to drizzle over; last week I posted this House Chimichurri, and like many of you, we have a pile of great guacamole recipes like this Quick Columbian Guacamole. And how about this Columbian Aji Sauce?

Another one we’ve been playing with over the years is this Spicy Cilantro Pesto; our favorite flavors here come with using toasted cashews or pepitas, with a little onion, lime, and a serrano thrown in.

Pestos are a great addition to your table; they’re not only tasty but packed with nutritious, vibrant ingredients, and endlessly customizable to suit your palate and mood of the day.

Try this one with cotija if you can get your hands on some, and don’t forget to add good salt at the end to taste.

2 cups packed cilantro, leaves and tender stems
1/4 cup toasted cashews, pine nuts, pepitas, walnuts, or almonds
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp fresh lime juice
1/3 to 2/3 cup oil (avocado or extra virgin olive oil) to desired consistency
1/2 cup grated good parmesan cheese or cotija
Good salt to taste

Optional
2-4 tbsp chopped red onion
1/4 to 1 seeded and chopped serrano chile
1/2 to 1 tsp fresh lime zest

Into your trusty food processor go the cilantro and nuts of choice, pulse several times to finely chop, then add the garlic, onion and pepper if using, and pulse to combine.

At this point, we like to add the lime juice and then dribble in the oil with the processor running until smooth, then pulse in the cheese and lime zest if using. Importantly, salt to taste and stir well.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Salad Sunday 9 December: Chile Lime Vinaigrette

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There are a gazillion recipes for good vinaigrettes out there; we seem to stir or whisk up a vinaigrette four or five nights per week these days.

Of all the recipes we enjoy, this Chile Lime Vinaigrette is probably my personal favorite and one that we serve on a simple slaw (green and a little purple cabbage, thinly sliced green or red onions, maybe some grated carrot or beet, slivered bell pepper, and pending the protein, usually a handful of cilantro leaves) at least once a week.

Though it’s typically a tad more than 3 tablespoons, I always count on using two limes, and pending how spicy the chile paste (or garlic chile paste) jar happens to be this time around, may use a bit more to spice things up.

This vinaigrette not only plays well on slaws and salads, but roasted vegetables and even occasionally as a dipping sauce for roasted or grilled chicken and more.

The brown sugar is of course optional; even the 1/2 teaspoon adds just the tiniest hint of sweetness that adds to the flavor package here.

1/4 cup avocado oil (or EVOO)
3 tbsp fresh lime juice
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp good fish sauce
1 tbsp fresh chile paste or chile garlic paste
3/4 tsp salt (or more to taste)

Optional
2-3 tbsp chopped cilantro leaves
1/2 tsp brown sugar

This one couldn’t be easier. Combine the first six ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to combine, pour over your slaw, salad, or vegetables. Best made right before use.

Enjoy.