Older Bolder Life

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the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Spicy Merguez Sausage

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Marooned at home during these days of social distancing found us searching for a bit of a different spin on the traditional Easter dinner last weekend.

Our adult daughter Jess is spending some time with us, seeking some sunshine and a taste of spring after the long, cold, and dark Montana winter. She’s a photojournalist working in the outdoor space, and after recent journeys “BC”, which translates these days around our camp to before-COVID, she’s come to really enjoy Middle Eastern flavors.

After kicking around several options, we decided to make up a batch of Spicy Merguez Sausage, using a combination of lamb and pork belly; the pork belly was chosen in part as our favorite local butcher didn’t have pork fat on hand, but some very very nice belly.

We played around with several different batches of spices, and finally settled on this fairly traditional array including fennel seed, coriander seed, and cumin seed, enriched with paprika, garlic, a nice harissa, and a hint of fresh cilantro.

As you home-crafted sausage fans know well, freezing your meats pre-grind until they’re firm (20-30 minutes) makes them handle much better, and pre-toasting spices before grinding and mixing brings all sorts of additional, deeper, and richer flavor notes.

The truly ambitious can certainly whip up a batch of their favorite harissa as well, though we used a trusted commercially prepared brand and were quite happy.

3 pounds lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
1 pound skinless pork belly, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 tsp whole fennel seed
2 tsp whole coriander seed
2 tsp whole cumin seed
2 tbsp kosher salt
2 tsp good paprika
1 tsp cayenne

6-7 garlic cloves, trimmed and minced
1/3 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1/3 cup harissa (perhaps more)
1/3 cup ice water

Prep the two meats then spread in a single layer on a lined baking sheet; throw in the freezer for 20-30 minutes. (See note above.)

Meanwhile, toast the fennel, coriander, and cumin seed in a cast iron skillet over medium heat (preheat the skillet) until fragrant; remove to a pestle or spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. Place in a small bowl and combine with the salt, paprika, and cayenne.

When ready to grind, scrape the chilled meats into a bowl, sprinkle with half the spice mixture, half the garlic, and half the harissa then toss to combine. Now grind the meats into a bowl set in ice through your small die.

Scrape the meat into the bowl of your stand mixer, add the remainders of the spice mixture, garlic, cilantro, and harissa, add the water, and mix on low speed until the mixture has combined and is uniform (and a little sticky).

While the rest of the sausage chills in the fridge, test cook a small patty and then adjust seasonings (pending how hot the harissa might be, we almost always add more).

Shape into patties (or links) or stuff into prepared casings.

Of course these need to stay in the fridge (or freezer) until cooked, and smell heavenly while sautéing until well-browned and cooked through.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Creole Mustard and Honey Yogurt Dressing

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Extra time at home of late has fostered digging deeper into my list of “damn, I should try and work out a recipe for that” list over the past few weeks.

My lovely wife is a huge fan of tzatziki, the wonderful Greek yogurt-based sauce / condiment packed with garlic, dill, and grated cucumber. Her enthusiasm for tzatziki has led us to explore of number of yogurt-based salad dressings over the past several months; there are several pretty damned good commercially-prepared options out there, many made with very acceptable ingredients for the most part, although they can be a bit pricey.

Being the inveterate tinkerer in the kitchen, the combination of looking for a new dipping sauce for these delicious Cast Iron Skillet Wings and working to jazz up our home salad routine led to some serious yogurt-based dressing and sauce experiments of late.

Using a Creole mustard (see if you can find Zatarains’s version) adds a depth of flavor and texture that’s hard to beat, and led to me experimenting with adding a few brown or yellow mustard seeds to the dressing as well. Yep, they’re a bit crunchy until they soften in the dressing (only a few hours needed) but add interest and flavor here.

As always, dressing recipes are simply a framework for you to start from, adjusting flavors to suit your (your family’s) palate, and you’ll want to try this one with varying amounts of honey.

This would probably be amazing with leftover Easter ham next week…

1/2 cup Greek yogurt
2-4 T honey
2 T prepared mustard
2 T Creole Mustard
1/2 t salt
Optional: 1 tsp of mustard seeds, see note below

Combine all ingredients in a small mix bowl and whisk together until homogenous and smooth. If using dry mustard seeds, which are great for additional texture, interest, and flavor, make sure to add at least an hour before serving so they hydrate and soften. Store covered in the fridge.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Cast Iron Skillet Wings

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I’m not the least bit ashamed to admit that I’ve been a life-long fan of chicken wings, and before becoming a Primally-aligned eater roughly four years ago, had never met a wing prep that I didn’t like.

Chicken wings are an absolutely perfect hand food, just the right size for easy maneuvering to pick all that delicious protein off the bones, with a great ratio of skin to meat (if prepared well) to satisfy the pickiest grilled protein fan.

We have a house favorite grilled chicken wing recipe (dust them with garlic powder and paprika before grilling) that involves basting the flock of wings with our family secret butter and Worcestershire-based sauce, but sometimes the weather just won’t cooperate when you have the itch for wings.

We’ve just come through the rainiest first three months of the year on record here in the DFW area, and recently on day 8 or 9 of what was to be an 11 day straight run of rain, my lovely wife said it was time for wings. Figuring who the hell am I to argue when Momma says it’s time for wings, this recipe came back out of mothballs from a particularly long winter during our Montana days.

With a tip of the hat the original Buffalo Wings recipe which called for a sauce made simply of butter and Frank’s Hot Sauce, we prefer to make this recipe using either a traditional Louisiana-style hot sauce (hello Crystal, my old friend) or with a Tex-Mex bent using something like Valentina.

Oven roasting the wings in a hot oven on a base of cast iron allows the wings to cook slowly enough to absorb the flavors and fat used, yet in a hot enough setting to get nice and crispy and build layers of flavor as you add the hot sauce just a bit at a time over 20 to 30 minutes. Yep, you’ll use an entire bottle of sauce; be patient, you’re building layers of flavor that beat anything you’ll ever see at that wing eatery down the road.

These are great party food by the way, and we like to pour a batch onto a big platter, set it in the middle of the table and let everybody go to it, with your favorite dressing for dipping on the side (we’re torn between blue cheese and a creole honey mustard, with a good ranch a close third).

Roughly two pounds, wings, separated (see note)
7-8 ounces of your favorite hot sauce (see above)
2 tbsp grass fed butter
1 tbsp avocado oil
Good salt and fresh ground pepper
1/4 to 1 tsp cayenne pepper (or Cajun/Creole seasoning)

Fire the oven and preheat to 475.

Prep the wings by cutting off the tips, and then separating the drumettes from the wingettes; save those discarded tips for your next chicken stock batch.

When the wings are prepped and the oven’s almost there, set your largest cast iron skillet on the stover over medium-high heat; when it’s warmed for several minutes melt the butter and oil together in the skillet.

When it’s hot, add the wings and stir to coat, then sprinkle liberally with the salt, pepper, and cayenne, and then spritz just enough of the hot sauce over the wings to give them a coat. Stir the wings and throw in the oven.

Now for the next 2o to 30 minutes, until the wings are fully cooked, browned and crispy, you’re going to pull the skillet from the oven every three minutes, turn the wings over, and coat with more hot sauce (again, just enough to coat the wings).

Serve hot from the oven with your favorite dipping sauce alongside as per above.

Hot damn, these are good. And easy.

Enjoy.

 

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Thyme Butter Basted Red Snapper

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For today’s Friday Feast I’m pleased to share a little trick that I learned this year during my brief stint working in a commercial restaurant kitchen during my “take a peek behind the curtain” look at the food industry.

As it turns out, the executive chef of the team I was working with had spent years running an upscale eatery in the Dallas metro that primarily focused on fresh seafood. The volume of fish and shellfish they prepared and served back in the day was absolutely staggering (Dallas/DFW is a metro that loves eating out), and this gentleman handled fish, shrimp, and oysters with a deft efficiency that was a marvel to watch.

Every time I had a chance I pestered him for tips and tricks that were readily translatable to the home kitchen, and the most useful one he shared was this very preparation that works for almost any fish, though we talked most often about using it for a firm fleshed white fish like red snapper and redfish here in Texas, though flounder, cod, halibut, and several other of course work as well. Leaving skin on one side (on the half shell, at least down here in the South) helps maintain the integrity of the fillet, though of course that’s up to you.

Having been taught over the years to pan sauté fish fillets over higher heat, I was a bit surprised at Chad’s insistence that the best way to prepare this dish was as follows.

Having prepped your fish (trimmed, washed, removed any remaining scales), the fillets need to be patted dry thoroughly while pre-heating a (preferably non-stick or a well-seasoned carbon steel) pan over medium-low heat.

Splash a tablespoon or two of avocado or olive oil in the pan (you’re cooking over lower heat, so olive oil works here), then season the fillets generously with good salt and perhaps a grind of fresh pepper (we also use a fresh cajun spice mix occasionally) and place skin side down in the heated pan.

You need to pay attention here, if the oil smokes, you’re running too hot; removed the pan, turn down the heat, put the pan back over the heat and be patient. Pending how thick your fillets are, you’ll most likely cook for 4-6 minutes before turning, and only after the fish has released from the pan. Don’t try to turn or “scrape it off” if the initial side hasn’t released – it will eventually.

Carefully turn the fillets using a fish spatula if you have one, and then drop in several generous pats of your favorite grass fed butter and a handful of fresh herbs – we’re partial to the magic that thyme brings to the dish, though experiment and try your favorites.

As the butter melts (and it might take a bit of time as you’re cooking over lower heat), tip the pan to one side, pooling the butter, and then spoon it over the fillets as they cook. Continue basting intermittently until the fish is cooked through to your preference.

After removing the fish to warmed plates and topping each with a few sprigs of thyme, squeeze half a lemon’s juice (or more if you wish) into the butter remaining in the pan, stir it in, and spoon over the fillets.

Enjoy this one, you’ll be coming back to it again and again.

The Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Easy Mu Shu Pork Cheat

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This has become one of our favorite family quick stir fries, and it has a bit of history behind it as I shared several years on ChiWulff (a fly fishing blog) –

Our clan fell in love with the classic Chinese dish Mu Shu Pork believe it or not when camping at Gros Ventre campground out of Jackson a few decades back.

It became a must-do ritual to drive up from SLC, set up camp as quickly as possible, and then beat it back to town for dinner at the Lame Duck. The little hole in the wall place was down East Broadway, past the hospital almost to the end of the road where the branch to the Elk Refuge peels off. I don’t know how many times we ate there with the kids as they grew up; we even got to know one of the waitresses pretty well one summer.

The Duck’s long gone now, a victim of Jackson’s (unfortunate in many ways) transformation, though the memory of great dinners past lingers. They had the best sizzling rice soup any of us have ever tasted, and among many other delights – a great Mu Shu Pork.

We’ve tried over the years to recreate the dish; we’ve come close but never hit it on the money and haven’t tried for years now – until this quick (kinda’ve a cheater) version came across our radar a few weeks ago.

She Who Must Be Obeyed has been out of town all week on business and I can knock this entire prep out in under 20 minutes now (after a few practice rounds), given how it’s based off using an (at least partially) pre-seasoned commercial sausage you bring to life with some minced ginger and garlic…

With even the most basic of knife skills you can chop your way through this recipe in less than 10 minutes, and then you basically just sauté everything up in a large skillet, preferably a big-assed cast iron one.

As per the images attached, we most often enjoy this one hot right out of the pan, drizzled with sriracha or a paleo version of hoisin sauce. Classically the dish is served with small rice flour “pancakes”, which you can easily sub with any of the low-carb tortillas on the market today.

1 and 1/2 pounds commercial hot Italian sausage (casing removed)
2 inch piece of peeled fresh ginger, minced
4-5 garlic cloves, minced
Avocado oil or EVOO
7-8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, sliced thin
3-4 ounces wood ear mushrooms, sliced thin
8-9 cups Napa cabbage, thinly sliced, divided
1 large bunch green onions, trimmed and sliced into 1-in pieces, reserve 1/3 of total
2 tbsp rice vinegar
2 tbsp good tamari or coconut aminos
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
Butter or other lettuce leaves

Optional
1 can bamboo shoots, drained and cut into matchsticks
Sriracha, primal/paleo hoisin sauce, low-carb wraps

To get started, mince the fresh ginger and garlic and add to the sausage in a small bowl; work in evenly with your hands.

Heat 2 tablespoons of avocado oil in a large cast iron skillet over med-high heat and brown the sausage mixture well, breaking it up into a small-medium crumble as you go. When it’s done, remove to a clean plate, reserving the drippings in the skillet.

Without reducing the heat, sauté the trimmed mushrooms in the drippings, you want them to release a bit of liquid, then brown and crisp up a bit (4 to 5 minutes should do it).

Now add half the sliced cabbage, the bamboo shoots and 2/3’s of the green onions: keep things moving until the cabbage is wilted. Now add the rice vinegar and soy sauce and simmer quickly until the liquid is for the most part reduced (won’t take but 2 or 3 minutes).

Remove from the heat and add the remaining cabbage and green onions, sprinkle the sesame seeds and oil over and stir it all in.

Serve hot in your lettuce wraps (or the wrap of your choice) slathered with Sriracha or your favorite primal/paleo hoisin.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Hot Damn Tri-Tip Chili

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As much as many of us would prefer it not be so, it’s still winter in much of the country, and still soup, stew, and chili season.

We’ve been big chili fans around our camp for many years, and have a slew of recipes we always reach for. Like most of you, we have recipes using all sorts of different proteins, and a few vegetarian recipes as well, though many of those utilize legumes in higher volumes than we typically consume these days.

And while when I hear the word tri-tip, I most often think of a grilled Santa Maria styled tri-tip, with a crusty spice layer and cooked to a tempting medium-rare finish, and sliced thinly across the grain, tri-tip is a great braiser too.

This Hot Damn Tri-Tip Chili owes it’s chili magic to two key things.

The first is the simple fact almost all of the chili flavor comes from a chile puree you make right in your own kitchen, one that you can in fact customize to suit your own preferences (by varying the chiles) quite simply. Once you get this routine down a whole new world of chile (and chili) goodness will open before you.

The second part of the magic is the wonder that happens to a cut of protein that’s a little on the tougher-chew side but imbued with an amazingly deep, rich flavor when it’s slowly braised in a spicy liquid in low heat over several hours. You can have your Instant Pot – there’s no way it can touch the flavors that low and slow cooking imparts.

Don’t let the length of the ingredient list and instructions fool you, this is a very straightforward recipe and only takes 25-30 minutes of actual hands-on time if you’re handy in the kitchen.

Git ‘er done.

5-8 dried ancho chiles, prepped and cleaned
5-8 dried guajillo chiles, prepped and cleaned
2-4 dried New Mexico chiles, prepped and cleaned
4-5 pounds tri-tip , cut into 1-inch pieces
2-3 tbsp avocado oil (or EVOO)
2 fair-sized poblanos, stemmed, seeded, small dice
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, small dive
1 large onion, medium dice
6 cloves garlic (the big ones), minced
4 (or more) chipotles in adobo, minced
1 15-ounce can crushed tomatoes in juice
2 tbsp of your best chili powder (to cover all the chili flavor bases)
1-2 tbsp ground cumin (start with one)
1 tbsp good kosher salt (or more to taste)
2 generous tsp dried Mexican oregano
2-4 cups chicken broth as needed

Optional
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 bottle Mexican beer
More chilis!

Bring 2 cups of water to boil in a small saucepan, add the dried and prepped chiles, remove from heat, cover, and let stand for 30 minutes. When softened, puree chiles until smooth with a bit of the soaking liquid or chicken stock.

While the chiles are soaking, heat the oil over medium-high heat in your trusty Dutch oven; brown the tri-tip in batches, remove to a platter.

Fire the oven to 325.

Now sauté the onion and poblanos until soft, then add the garlic and chipotles and stir for a minute or so. Now stir in the chili powder, cumin, brown sugar, salt, and oregano; stir for another minute or so until well mixed.

Now add the beer if using, crushed tomatoes with juice, the chili puree, and the tri-tip back to the pot, mixing well, and topping off with stock if needed to cover the meat. Cover, and throw in the oven for at least three hours, stirring every hour and adding chicken stock as needed. It’s ready when the tri-tip loosens up and begins to fall apart.

When it’s done, pull from the oven, let rest for 20-30 minutes, skim the fat, and then go to it.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Salt Roasted Spicy Shrimp

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Back a few years ago my lovely wife and I spent an interesting year and a half in Alabama (it’s a long story, for another time). We love much of the culture and food of the Deep South, though for reasons that aren’t really important here we weren’t necessarily in love with our city of residence at the time.

One of the saving graces of our time there, at least from the perspective now several years past, was our proximity to the Gulf of Mexico and it’s bounty of fresh seafood. We eventually found a little market in our community that drove fresh seafood up every night to sell the next morning, and we became regulars, elbowing through the crowds to get the best Royal Red shrimp before they quickly sold out.

While we love shrimp grilled over a wood fire, and boiled shrimp Gulf Coast style, we also grew to savor this Salt Roasted Spicy Shrimp recipe that I tweaked from one posted in Garden and Gun back in late 2014 or early 2015.

The shell-on shrimp (the recipe calls for head-on as well – your and my grandmothers were right in saying cooking the whole shrimp does add flavor) don’t get too salty despite being cooked in a bed of blisteringly hot, and well seasoned, rock salt. (Please note – we have seen a failure when a relative tried to cook shrimp using this recipe in kosher salt – this only works with genuine rock salt.) Can’t find head-on, shell-on shrimp in your market? No problem, I couldn’t when preparing this batch imaged here – they’ll still taste great.

The somewhat unusual array of spices spices add a wonderful yet subtle melody of flavors and the shrimp come out plump, firm, surprisingly moist, and peel easily.

2 pounds 20-25 head-on shrimp (in the shell)

3 pounds Rock salt
3 tbsp black peppercorns
2 tbsp whole coriander
5 bay leaves (make sure they’re fresh)
4-5 star anise
12-14 sprigs of fresh thyme
3 jalapeno peppers, stemmed and sliced
1 head garlic, smashed, loose skin removed
2 lemons, quartered, divided

Preheat your trusty oven to 475.

Build your seasoned salt by combing the rock salt, coriander, peppercorns, bay leaves, star anise, thyme, garlic, the sliced jalapeños, and four lemon quarters in a large bowl; mix well.

Pour or spoon roughly half the salt mixture into a large oven-safe dish; slide into the oven for 15 minutes to get good and hot.

Pull the hot dish (carefully!), add the shrimp evenly dispersed in a single layer and cover evenly with the remaining salt.

Now back into the oven for 8-10 minutes; pull it when they’re just cooked through (sometimes as early as 7 minutes if the shrimp are on the small side).

Carefully remove the shrimp from the salt (tongs in my kitchen) and serve immediately with the remaining lemon quarters and perhaps a cocktail sauce built upon a primal/paleo ketchup. Hot damn.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Back to Basics – Roasting Spaghetti Squash

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Now and again I’m reminded how we in the Primal/paleo/more healthy eating worlds take for granted a few foundational recipes that we reach for often, and yet might not be in the typical rotation for folks eating a standard North American diet.

Of late it seems a surprising number of folks have asked about roasting spaghetti squash, something we do a fair amount of around our camp during the late fall and through the winter season, if you can call what we experience here in North Texas a real winter season. After spending years and years in Montana, much of that time living and working daily on a family operated horse farm and show/training facility, we really began to understand what the winter season brought to the table.

Spaghetti squash are a nifty addition to the menu, and seem to be available just about everywhere we shop for them these days, at least in our greater neighborhood here. My favorite grocer typically only carries organic spaghetti squash of late, and I can bring home a big one (more than two of us can finish in one meal) for under 5 bucks.

Roasting spaghetti squash is so ridiculously easy this really doesn’t even rate a formal recipe presentation here on the blog.

To get started, all you need to do is slice the squash body in half “the long way” and scrape out the seed mass in the center of the squash. Chef friend Libby showed me the trick a few years back of using a grooved ice cream spoon to get this task done quickly.

And by the way, preheat the oven to 400 and line a baking sheet with parchment paper or foil.

We typically brush (onto the cut side of course) a tablespoon or so of a good olive or avocado oil, dust with kosher or our favorite salt of the day on hand, and dust with pepper. You simply then place cut side down on the prep baking sheet and bake for 40-45 minuets until a knife slides in easily. Some recommend piercing the tough outer skin with a fork, though when I forget to do so it never appears to matter one bit.

When done, remove from the oven, turn the halves cut side up, and let cool for 5-10 minutes. Then simply “flake” or scrape the strands of cooked spaghetti squash from the halves with a long-tined fork and serve.

In the lead picture above, we’ve topped the spaghetti squash with this amazing Lemon Bomb Piccata Sauce (and Parmesan Chicken), though my wife probably most prefers it steaming hot, topped with butter and parmesan, and perhaps a bit of chopped parsley or basil.

It really is delicious topped with a regular or meat-enhanced pasta sauce as well, and Libby often serves it with a handful of crisp-sautéed vegetables thrown in too…

Enjoy.