We’re changing things up a bit on this Pre-Thanksgiving Friday Feast today and posting a great video based on Serious Eats’ Braised Turkey Thigh recipe…
Thicken that sauce/gravy with your favorite flour-thickener alternative…
Stronger | Leaner | Sharper | Longer - From Older Bolder Fitness
We’re changing things up a bit on this Pre-Thanksgiving Friday Feast today and posting a great video based on Serious Eats’ Braised Turkey Thigh recipe…
Thicken that sauce/gravy with your favorite flour-thickener alternative…
When were up in Montana a few weeks ago, I brought along about five pounds of skirt steak for a celebratory fajita dinner. We have a family favorite, Texas-inspired version we’ve been making for years (recipe later perhaps), and ended up making the entire bundle of skirt using that old recipe.
I’d actually intended to do a pound or two using this Grilled Gochujang Skirt Steak recipe a friend shared with us a few months back, though didn’t grill this one up until we were back in Texas settled into our routine again.
We’re using gojuchang more and more in the kitchen these days. If you’re not familiar, it’s the umami-laden, thick, crimson red, Korean fermented chile paste that’s most often sold in the little red tubs in our neck of the woods. For those watching their soy intake, most brands include fermented soy in the mix. Note occasionally a bit of glutinous (sticky) rice has been ground in to thicken the mixture, and some even include additional sweeteners (an ingredient we prefer not be included).
This blistering summer we’ve typically been eating thinly-sliced, grilled skirt steak (both warm and cold) over a big-assed salad, but it makes for a great taco (tortilla or lettuce) along the lines of what we talked about in last Friday’s Grilled Southwestern Lamb Shoulder Tacos.
You’ll want to try this in your rotation next week…
2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed, cut into 8-ounce pieces
1/3 cup (generous) gochujang + more for the table
1/3 cup (generous) avocado oil (or EVOO)
1/3 cup (generous) rice vinegar (seasoned if you have it)
2-3 tbsp tamari, coconut aminos, or soy sauce
1/2 sweet onion, gratedTo serve
Warm tortillas or lettuce leaves
Your favorite taco fixin’s
Trim your skirt steaks and cut into roughly 8-ounce pieces.
Combine the gojuchang, oil of choice, rice vinegar, tamari/aminos/soy sauce, and the grated onion in a small bowl and mix well. Pour into a large resealable bag, add the meat and goosh it around so every surface has been coated with the marinade.
Into the fridge it goes for at least an hour, overnight is better.
When ready to cook, drain the skirt steak, and grill over medium-high heat 2-3 minutes per side. Remember skirt cooks really quickly as it’s so thin, and we like ours medium rare…
Pull, let rest for 10 minutes or so while you’re getting the rest of the goods ready, then slice thinly across the grain and go to it.
Enjoy.
This recipe fell in my lap one September afternoon last year; I was attending an outdoor cooking demonstration put on by a gifted hunting and game chef (Killer Chefs) – he was cooking an amazing looking (and tasting) dove, pan-seared in butter, garlic, and thyme, before being finished on a grill to crisp it up a bit for serving.
I was chatting with several other interested cooks (and eaters) in the crowd and ended up trading recipes for leg of lamb with one gentleman who shared about a Grilled Southwestern Spiced Lamb Shoulder Taco he had recently prepared for a gathering.
Within a week I’d made up several versions of his recipe and we ended up liking this one the best; you need plan ahead a bit as it needs overnight time in the marinade, but it’s well worth it and makes a great primal/paleo centerpiece for your next shindig.
5-6 pound bone-in leg of lamb roast (about 3-4 pounds boneless), butterflied
Marinade
1/2 cup olive oil, divided
6 cloves garlic, crushed
2-3 jalapeño peppers, stemmed, seeded, minced
2 small shallots, chopped small
5 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tbsp crushed red pepper flakes
2 teaspoons good salt
2 teaspoons fresh ground pepperTaco fixin’s
Fresh corn tortillas if you’re using those now and again
Otherwise fresh lettuce leaves
A great salsa or two (consider this one or this one)
Cheese: crumbled cotija, feta, or even goat cheese
Avocado slices or dices
Freshly sliced red radishes
Maybe even uber fresh green onions sliced on the bias
Whatever the heck else goes in your tacos
Salt and pepper
Stir together the marinade ingredients, pour into a large resealable plastic bag, add the lamb shoulder, seal it up and goosh it around until the lamb is covered with liquid and spices. Throw it in the fridge overnight.
When ready to cook, fire the grill, and grill the butterflied lamb for 6-8 minutes per side (an internal temp of about 145) for medium-rare. Pull it and rest the meat for at least 10-15 minutes.
Now slice across the grain into taco-sized slices and start working on those taco masterpieces; you’ll have some great leftovers for the next few days too.
Enjoy.
Last week we shared a quick discussion about road trip foods; the concepts would of course apply to those camping or exploring new territory otherwise ensconced in a hotel or vacation rental.
One of the foods we like to take along, certainly in the warmer months of the year, is a grilled leg of lamb. There are a host of great ways to prepare and grill a leg of lamb; we love traditional Greek flavors around our camp, though we reach for this Ancho Grilled Leg of Lamb three out of four times lamb is on the menu.
You need to plan ahead a bit, as it’s much better soaking in the marinade overnight (up to 24 hours). And it’s very much worth tracking down fresh oregano and genuine ancho chile powder (check the Hispanic foods aisle at your favorite grocer, spices and chiles are often much more reasonably priced there). Don’t be afraid of the garlic amount either; when we originally pilfered this recipe from Chef Libby in Austin, her’s called for 14-16 cloves!
By the way, this is great hot of the grill, and maybe even better chilled the next few days.
1 cup white wine
1/3 cup good olive oil
6 tbsp fresh oregano
2 green onions
10 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp ancho chile powder
3 tbsp good blended chili powder
4 tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 and 1/2 tbsp kosher salt
1 generous tbsp fresh ground black pepper1- 4 to 5 pound, grass-fed leg of lamb, trimmed and butterflied
Combine everything (but the lamb!) in your trusty blender and blend well; add more wine if too thick. Slather the leg of lam in the marinade, rubbing it into the nooks and crannies; place the leg of lamb (covered in all of the marinade) in the fridge overnight, consider using a two-gallon plastic bag to ensure better coverage. Turn it once before you go to bed and again in the morning.
Fire your grill, and note you’ll need a fire with some staying power; we like this over oak and natural hardwood charcoal. Gently shake excess marinade from the lamb (but don’t shake it all off) and let it rumble along for 15-18 minutes per side. It’s medium rare at 130 though you’ll want this big piece of meat to rest for 15 minutes or so.
Once rested, artfully slice thinly against the grain and pour some of those incredible pan juices that oozed out while it was resting over it. Holy smoke, that’s good.
Enjoy.
We’ve been talking lately about making the best possible choices when shopping for proteins, covering a few principles regarding red meat proteins here and poultry proteins here.
The health benefits of regular seafood consumptions are pretty much indisputable (see here and here for example), with some particular precautions duly noted, and include reduction of chronic inflammation, improved mood and decreased risk of depression, improved cardiovascular and pulmonary health/function, and improved cognitive function across all age groups.
Two key principles in selecting the best fish choices include selecting fish from colder waters (higher omega-3) and fish lower down the food chain (to minimize concentration of mercury and other contaminants as you move further up the chain).
Remember the SMASH fish five: salmon, mackerel (not king mackerel), anchovies, most sardines, and herring. Smaller fish are most often more economical, and many are canned using quality oils (check to be sure).
Wild-caught fish from remote, pollution free waters should be top on your list (Bristol Bay salmon, we’re thinking about you).
Most farmed fish and shellfish, particularly those raised out of country, are fairly high risk given their exposures to substandard feeds, antibiotic use in pens to address infections caused by compromised water and conditions, are often pesticide-treated given infestations of their tanks, and are often raised in toxic, polluted waters. Many farmed fish and shellfish are even fed artificial coloring agents to tint their flesh more like their wild cousins (common in some Atlantic salmon farms).
There are exceptions to the ‘avoid most farmed fish’ caution, and include domestically raised catfish, barramundi, trout, tanked-farmed coho salmon, crayfish, and most domestically propagated shellfish.
Top of the list every time will be the wild-caught, cold-water, oily fish – think the SMASH five; followed by other sustainable, wild-caught fish from pristine waters.
Fish lower on the food chain are your friend for the most part; fish higher on the food chain (i.e. king mackerel, American eel, Chilean sea bass, orange roughy, marlin, shark, swordfish, and some tuna – ahi and big eye) are more prone to bio-accumulation of toxins.
Sustainability of fish stocks has been and will remain a prime concern; for that reason we agree with those who suggest limited consumption of Atlantic cod, halibut, sole, bluefin tuna, and even flounder.
There are several resources available, though the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch site is probably the most commonly sited resource you need to bookmark and use, and they have a handy pocket guide you can print and carry with you (image cut below).
Though I was not convinced of this until several years ago, almost all farmed fish from Asia should be avoided given concerns over very lax management of water quality, specifically related to pollution and toxin levels, as well as substandard feeds used.
Another fish to avoid consistently is farmed Atlantic salmon, the species most commonly served by fishmongers and restaurant providers across the country. There’s years of data exposing the travesty of this particular industry, dig around a bit and read more if you’re skeptical.
We’ve all been cautioned for years about the impressive levels of mercury found in fish stocks, increasing as you move up the food chain, though there’s increasing data available that suggests naturally occurring selenium in fish (high levels except in swordfish and sharks) indeed counteracts many of the concerns regarding mercury in fish. A couple of interesting reads to overview the issue if you’ve not read much on this topic can be found here and here.
Years ago, living and working in the Salt Lake City valley, we befriended a couple who, among a bevy of interesting quirks, were partners with another guy in a small Alaskan fishing business.
This ‘other guy’ had a boat and spent a fair part of every summer up there and fished (commercially); he sold some of his take to the big canneries, but some, he packed up on ice in coolers, threw on a direct Delta flight, and were then sold by our friends out of their garage, most often 24 hours or less out of the water. And at prices far, far less than local fish markets (there weren’t multiple hands clamoring to take a cut out of the pie).
The halibut was amazing, but the salmon was simply stunning.
I’ll share in the next few weeks our all time favorite fresh salmon marinade (thanks, Judy!), but these kabobs are also one of our favorites (we just did a batch last week).
The kabobs are delicious and Instagram worthy as written, even more so with some thinly sliced vegetables threaded on the skewers, but a tip from a chef friend now has us grilling separate vegetable skewers as cook times differ a bit…
For the spice mix
2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano (or 1 T dried)
2 tsp white sesame seeds
1.5 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp good smoked paprika
1 tsp good pink or kosher salt
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes2 lemons, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced
2 tbsp EVOO or avocado oil1 and 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillet, cut into approx. 1.5 inch pieces
Optional: Thinly sliced baby zucchini, summer squash, red bell pepper squares, etc
For the spice mix, we find it easier to dump all the spice mix ingredients into a mini-processor and whirl them together.
Onto pairs of skewers thread salmon and half-slices of lemon (alternating of course); if you choose to throw some vegetables into the mix, either artfully thread them onto the skewers with the lemon and salmon, or construct several vegetable only skewers.
Brush each skewer with the oil, dust generously with the spice mix, and grill, rotating every 1-2 minutes, until the fish is done to your liking.
Enjoy.
Last week we talked a bit about making the best possible choices for the red meat proteins (wild game, beef, bison, pork, lamb, and goat) you choose to enjoy in your meal rotation.
Today lets cover quickly some key concepts regarding poultry, which for most of us purchasing poultry are talking about chicken and turkey (as opposed to harvesting wild birds – think wild turkeys, ducks, pheasants, geese, quail, and doves for example).
The objective here is to look for and consume pastured poultry (as opposed to CAFO poultry), though it’ll likely take a bit more effort to find than comparable options in the red meat arena.
Pasture-raised birds are so much more tasty and nutritious than their confined (CAFO) kin; folks tend to forget than most fowl are omnivorous, and CAFO operations in essence force feed birds a vegetarian (grain based) diet along with the flood of other unhealthy and in some instances downright offensive supplemental feed products, antibiotics, pesticides, and more.
We’d join the chorus of folks who suggest the very best option is finding a local producer with whom you can verify that birds are truly pasture-raised; they may be feed supplemental grains as well.
Chickens certified as organic by a mass producer are likely indeed fed organic grains but are most often not pastured; their vegetarian diet produces an inferior product compared to pasture-raised birds.
Buy whole chickens (if you never learned to cut one up, check out the video below) and use everything, including the organs, bones (chicken stock is a great thing to keep in the freezer), and render that delicious chicken fat.
For those who have (wisely) chosen to consume animal proteins as a tasty and nutritious component of a rational, healthy eating plan, here are a few (fairly concise) thoughts on making the best red meat protein choices possible.
One, there’s no question that the anthropological data overwhelmingly supports the fact that early man obtained a significant portion (some say up to 85%) of daily calories from animal foods. It’s also fairly clear that among other nutrients, it was protein and omega-3 fatty acid consumption that facilitated the development of the human brain as document in historical records. Despite what may be passionate arguments otherwise, human physiology appears to require animal-derived proteins to optimally develop and function, particularly when considering the simple math of nutrient and caloric density of various foods.
(For those who can’t conceptually separate issues regarding saturated fats from a discussion of red meat proteins, see discussion here on the Fat Paradigm.)
And of note, for many of us, making the best protein choices can’t be done without casting a responsible and thoughtful look at cost issues. A common criticism (and one not necessarily unearned) of popular ancestral eating philosophies (i.e. Primal and Paleo) has to do with the recommendations to eat organic, grass-fed meat.
Choosing these types of meat products, as opposed to the much more widely available CAFO (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations) meats clearly does most often cost more, though there are fairly simple ways to address meat quality and cost concerns (like cow-pooling, or ordering meat in larger quantities). The principle clearly is to make the best choices you can within your budget.
When speaking of proteins, beef cows in particular are grazing animals and are meant to eat various grasses, not grains and other substandard feeds in CAFO operations. In CAFO operations they’re crowded, often in filthy and what some would define as inhumane conditions, and fed grains and other feed products far, far from their historical diet. In addition, cattle (pigs and poultry as well) are often exposed to hormones (to speed growth), antibiotics due to their filthy living conditions, antacids due to the aberrant feed affects on their guts, and pesticides to control pest infestations.
The answer? Fairly simple – find and purchase grass-fed, pasture-raised red meat products. While it’s arguable grass-fed and grain-finished meat has a bit more marbling, it’s best to review with a grower / rancher how they manage split-feeding to ensure animals are primarily pasture fed and not finished with offensive grains or supplemental feeds.
For those with the inclination and access, the best quality red meat available on the planet is probably wild game harvested ethically and managed in a timely and careful way in the field. My son and his wife living in Montana harvest their own game and 90% or more of the red meat protein they consume is wild elk, venison, and bison.
So what are the best array of red meat choices available to us today?
As noted above, the very highest tier of red meat quality would be the lean, tasty, omega-3-rich wild game animal ethically harvested and managed well in the field.
In terms of beef, the top choice would be 100% grass fed/pasture-raised stock from a local grower you can interact with personally. Cow-pooling, sharing a full animal or a side of beef is a great way to dip your toe into the water so to speak. Look around, regional cattle operations are a cinch to find on the web these days.
The next tier choice would be certified organic beef, which is often grass-fed and grain-finished, with the next level being conventionally-raised (likely CAFO) beef. IF budget constraints limited grass-fed beef options, limit fat consumption of CAFO animals as many of the toxins introduced in CAFO operations accumulate in fatty tissue.
In terms of pork, wild pigs are growing in popularity, and if you have the means to harvest one, by all means eat all from nose to tail. Pasture-raised pigs are much less common that pastured beef, but if you look around locally odds are you can find some (pig-pooling works too!).
Lamb is another great option, and at this point in time it appears that while American lamb is generally grain-fed during their life cycle, New Zealand and Australian lamb is typically grass-fed and tasty.
And while not common in much of the United States, here in Texas there’s a fair amount of goat meat produced. Goats are interesting in that they’re what a friend calls ‘very opportunistic browsers’, eating brush, weeds, various leaves (even shrubs), and grass. We have several sources of pastured goat available close by, and there’s more and more available online.
Finding a local beef (and other red meats) producer aligned with these objectives can become something akin to a treasure hunt; some useful resources to search out local beef, lamb, pork, and goat in your area include:
Grass Fed Guide
Eat Wild
Ranch Meat
Upcoming posts will cover optimal choices for fish and seafood as well as poultry.