Older Bolder Life

Stronger | Leaner | Sharper | Longer - From Older Bolder Fitness

Holiday fare

the (Pre) Thanksgiving Friday Feast: The Ultimate Adobo Turkey

By

Years ago (and by that I actually mean several decades ago) there was a small quarterly magazine featuring spicy foods of the American Southwest published out of Albuquerque that we subscribed to.

It was simply titled Chile, in all honestly wasn’t that professionally done, but was packed with great recipes, tips and tricks for growing chiles of all sorts, and a smattering of advertising for all things chile-heads loved back in that day. Sadly, and I’m guessing in part given their laser-sharp focus on spicy foods of the Southwest, the magazine vanished in 2006 or 2007, leaving behind little or no trace of their prior work.

We folded a number of their recipes into our family food lexicon, including one for what they called a recado turkey, which was a turkey rubbed with a vinegar and olive oil based rub, actually more like a slather, rich with toasted and coarsely ground peppers and other big, vibrant spices.

Truth be told, it wasn’t my wife’s favorite turkey preparation – the flavors were pretty bold and could be almost astringent at times – but the kids and I loved it, enough that we’d often do two turkeys (especially if entertaining), one a classic brined and roasted bird, and then our special recado turkey.

Much to my chagrin the back issue of Chile which holds the magic recado recipe is packed in storage in another state right now, and several friends and I have been chatting this past week about different ways to spice up the menu for Thanksgiving next week.

As we often do when we’re searching out novel preparations for creative and spicy foods featuring the melting pot cuisine of Texas and the Southwest, I reached out to Chef Libby in Austin and she suggested we give her Ultimate Adobo Turkey a spin. She described it as a pretty classic spin on adobo, built around two acids for tartness (cider vinegar and freshly squeezed orange juice), an impressive handful of toasted guajillo and ancho chiles along with fresh garlic, and a well-balanced spice array.

I was easily convinced to give the recipe a spin, and decided to incorporate the cooking method that the team at Bon Appetite is pushing this year – cutting up your turkey into several more manageable pieces pre-roasting, almost akin to spatchcocking, but with two distinct advantages. One, with the legs and wings removed, it’s much easy to slather everything with the adobo. And two, the cut-up turkey cooks much faster, with both sides browning well when using the rack. The turkey pictured was a smaller one (about eleven pounds), but I think we’ll be using this method for years to come no matter how big the bird.

The adobo is outrageously good; Libby folds at least half a cup into her favorite gravy recipe when serving on her own table or for catering gigs, and a couple of tablespoons folded into your homemade avocado oil mayo recipe will change your leftover turkey sandwiches forever.

You’ll want to try this one – it’s hands down the best turkey prep we’ve ever enjoyed.

8 dried guajillo chiles
6 dried ancho chiles
8 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tbsp + 1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano
1 tbsp dried thyme leaves
1 inch of cinnamon stick, smashed
4 whole allspice
2 cloves
2/3 cup ACV
1/3 cup + 1 tbsp fresh orange juice
1/4 cup avocado or olive oil
1 tbsp good salt

Wipe the chiles clean, then stem, seed, and toast in a large skillet (cast iron wins here) over medium-high heat until fragrant, pliable, and slightly changed in color.

Place the toasted chiles in a large bowl and cover with boiling water and soak until softened (20-25 minutes). Drain the soaking liquid when softened.

While the chiles are soaking, toast the spices over medium-low heat until fragrant; keep them moving in the pan so they don’t burn (this should only take 2-3 minutes).

Into your trusty blender goes the ACV, orange juice, oil, toasted spices, garlic, salt, and the soaked – and drained – chiles; puree until very smooth. Be patient here, the mixture will likely be thick (add more orange juice if liquid is needed to get it moving), and you want to be sure and break up the whole spices.

Prep your turkey (see the discussion above), pat it dry, the coat all the turkey pieces with the adobo, reaching as far under the skin as you can. Place the rubbed turkey/turkey pieces on a rack in a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and throw in the fridge for at least 8 hours and up to a day.

When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 425, and line a clean baking sheet with three layers of foil, top with a clean rack, and then arrange the turkey/turkey pieces atop the rack. Add 1 cup of water to the baking sheet. Roast the turkey for 30 minutes at this temperature, rotating the rack front to back at 15 minutes.

Reduce the oven to 300, add water to the pan if needed, and continue to roast until the breast temp reads 150 and the thighs 170 on an instant read thermometer, adding water every to the roasting pan every thirty minutes or so as needed. Total cooking time depends on your turkey size, but should be somewhere around 75-90 minutes.

When done, tent (loosely) with foil and let rest at least 30 minutes before carving (60 is better).

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Vegetable Wednesday 26 December: Collard Greens Kimchi

By

With New Year’s Day celebrations looming on the horizon now, being good children of the South my wife and I have been raised to eat greens as part of the traditional New Year’s Day meal.

Truth be told, I didn’t grow up willfully embracing the concept of stewed or sautéed greens, though in my youth I picked at mustard, collard, and turnip greens at many a grandmother-prepared table over the years.

My personal view of greens changed when one of our favorite Southern restaurants here in the DFW metro started serving a wonderful crudite plate with a Collard Greens Kimchi as part of the array. We often have a quart jar of some version of kimchi in the fridge (using this recipe), and while collard greens take a bit of time in a briny soak to soften, they’re well worth the effort, and some say will help ensure wealth flows your way this year (if you hold to old Southern New Year’s Day tradition).

2 medium bunches collard green leaves
Fine sea salt

6 scallions, cut on diagonal into 1 inch pieces, use the white and pale green sections
1/3 cup (or more) gochugaru (Korean red chile flakes, coarse) OR
1.5 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes, ground
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
1 tablespoons fish sauce

Remove the stalks from the collards and cut the leaves into bite-sized pieces. Wash well, drain, and quickly pat dry. Now layer in a small bowl with generous amounts of the sea salt between layers, place a dish (or other weight on top) and leave for 30 minutes. Then massage the leaves a bit, turning them over, and making sure they’re fairly well covered with salt, cover with the weight in place for another 30 minutes. Repeat this process another three times, you’re looking for the leaves to become somewhat tender.

Rinse the leaves of salt and pat dry on paper towels.

Now combine the collard leaves with the scallions, pepper of choice, garlic, ginger, and fish sauce; stir to ensure all the leaves are well coated.

Now pack into a sterilized jar, leaving about an inch of headspace. Cover loosely and leave on the counter (out of direct sunlight) for up to two days to begin the magic of fermentation. Once you’re happy with evidence of fermentation, throw in the fridge, where the flavors will deepen and mature over the next week as fermentation slowly moves onward. Kimchi gurus insist this will keep for up to two months in the fridge.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast 21 December: Libby’s Honey Thyme Holiday Ham

By

Being children of the South, my wife and I often think about enjoying a nice ham during the holiday season. As our palates have changed over the years eating Primally, the commercially prepared, overly-sweet, glazed hams made famous by a certain franchise just don’t fit the bill these days.

We have a family favorite mustard-glazed, hardwood-smoked version we’re partial to, though Libby convinced me to try her Honey Thyme Holiday Ham recipe recently, and I have to say, it’s very likely the best ham we’ve ever cooked at home.

She adapted the recipe from one posted in the now-defunct Gourmet magazine years ago, and true to her Southern roots added a bit of creole mustard to the glaze. And yes, this ham has a glaze sweetened with honey; the flavor added, particularly working in concert with the thyme, is well worth the sprinkle of additional carbs in our book, and isn’t cloying (like the above mentioned commercially-prepped hams…).

Give this one a try if you’re thinking about a ham this year; it’s one you’ll come back to again.

12-14 pound fully cooked ham

1/3 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup mild honey
1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 tbsp + 1 tsp fresh thyme, chopped
1 tbsp creole or dijon mustard
1 and 1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
Optional: fresh ground pepper

Set your ham out at room temp an hour before starting to cook.

When ready to get started, fire your trusty oven to 350 and trim any rind (skin) from the ham, then score the surface ham fat in a crosshatch pattern (just the fat, not the meat).

Place the ham on a roasting rack in a hefty roasting pan, cover with a piece of parchment paper, then cover the entire roasting pan with foil. Bake for an hour and 45 minutes.

While the ham is baking, bring the vinegar to a boil in a small saucepan, and reduce to roughly 1 tbsp. Remove the pan from the heat, whisk in the butter until melted, then the honey, thyme, mustard, and Worcestershire. Set the glaze aside until the hour and 45 minutes are up.

When the first baking period has passed, remove the foil and parchment paper, brush the ham with half the glaze, pour a cup of water or apple cider into the roasting pan, and bake for 30 minutes.

Reglaze the ham with the remaining glaze and bake another 30 minutes (or until done).

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast 14 December: Boeuf Bourguignon

By

This is one of our family’s Holiday season classics, most often making it onto the menu for either Christmas Eve or Christmas Day dinner.

My lovely wife spent time in North Africa and Switzerland growing up, and became something of a Francophile along the way; in fact, those years inspired one of her careers as a linguist and educator.

Her interest in France and French history no doubt inspired our family tradition of enjoying Boeuf at the holiday. While Boeuf Bourguignon unquestionably had its origin as a peasants’ recipe, with food historians tracing its lineage to the Middle Ages, used then as a way to manage tough, less-desired cuts of meat using long, slow cooking and braising methods, through the 20th century it became a bistro favorite and developed an ‘up-town flair’.

Traditional recipes call for browning the beef after flouring; the flour serving both as a browning agent and a thickener for the rich broth that develops in cooking. Those who are gluten-intolerant should of course go without; we almost never use flour in any form, but this is one recipe where, in the big picture, we’re willing to overlook that 1/3 of a cup. You make the call; the same goes for the 2 teaspoons of sugar sprinkled over the onions and mushrooms…

This recipe is quite forgiving, and is probably even better the second or third day as the flavors meld and mature; it even freezes very well, though we never seem to have enough left over to put up for the long haul.

The recipe looks a bit long and complicated, though it’s not and flows very nicely in the kitchen.

4 lb beef chuck, trimmed, cut into 1 and 1/2-inch pieces
1/3 cup flour
2 tsp good salt
2 tsp fresh ground pepper
5 tbsp butter, divided
3 tbsp avocado or EVOO
1/2 lb thick-sliced bacon, diced
5 garlic cloves, peeled, thinly sliced
4 carrots, 1/2-inch diagonal slices
2 leeks, white and light green parts only, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped
3 bay leaves
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tbsp asian fish sauce
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 cups burgundy wine (maybe more)
Beef broth (one quart container should do, see below)
20-30 small white pearl onions, trimmed and skins removed
1 lb mushrooms, mixed, sliced thickly
3 tbsp butter
Juice of one lemon
2 tsp sugar
1/4 cup fresh parsley, optional

Preheat your trusty oven to 350.

Dredge the meat in the flour, salt, and pepper; heat 2 tbsp butter and one tbsp oil of choice in a large skillet. Sauté one-third of the meat until browned on all sides, remove to a dutch oven or large, heavy roasting pan and repeat two more times.

Now into the same skillet, add the bacon and sauté for several minutes until the fat begins to render; then add the garlic, carrots, leeks, and 1/2 cup parsley. Cook, stirring frequently, until the bacon is cooked through and there’s a bit of caramelization on the vegetables. Add the bay leaves and thyme, stir in, then dump the bacon mixture into the dutch oven/roasting pan with the beef.

Now add the wine and enough broth to just cover the meat, then the soy and fish sauces, adjust for salt, cover, and then into the oven for 90 minutes, checking halfway through to see if more broth/wine is needed.

Take a break for an hour, then sauté the prepped onions and mushrooms in 3 tbsp of butter until lightly browned,  sprinkle with the lemon juice and sugar, cooking and stirring for another 3 minutes or so. Add the mushroom-onion mixture to the beef, stir it in, then cover again and cook for another hour (or more) until the beef is fall apart tender.

Remove from the oven, let rest 10 minutes, skim any visible fat and remove the bay and thyme leaves. Adjust for salt and pepper, and serve hot with more fresh chopped parsley.

Enjoy.