Older Bolder Life

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The Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Spicy Cumin Coriander Tri-Tip Steak

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Several weeks ago I posted a nifty recipe for our spin on a Santa Maria Tri-Tip, and wrote a bit about what makes the tri-tip cut so interesting…

Recently we’ve been playing around with tri-tip, a somewhat unique cut of meat that is kinda’ve of a cross between a largish steak and a smallish roast; my butcher buddies argue that it’s really a roast cut from the lower part of the sirloin, so it shares some of the (lesser marbled and chewier) characteristics of sirloin steaks.

Most tri-tips you’ll run across today have their generous fat caps and silver skin already trimmed for you, weighing in somewhere in the 2-3 pound range most often; untrimmed they can run close to 5 pounds.

Steve Raichlen in his ginormous book BBQ USA has a nifty, and fairly detailed explanation of the tri-tip’s apparently indisputable ties to Santa Maria, California; if you’re into food history it’s a great read with Raichlen’s typical dry humor woven in nicely.

Raichlen’s story telling can be compelling reading, and the piece referenced above from his tome BBQ USA covering the regional history of the Santa Maria tri-tip is very good, and offers some great tips on cooking this somewhat unconventional cut of meat.

We’re all in for spicy marinades and slathers around our camp, and have been tweaking this one around the edges for a while now since coming across its predecessor in Bon Appetit some time back.

The peppercorns play very well with the cumin and coriander seed, and the oyster and fish sauces serve as a flavorful binder for the spices without overwhelming the core flavors at all. Note that this one needs time in the fridge once rubbed/slathered, at least 4 hours and overnight is better.

Tri-tip is a damned easy cook once you’re ready to roll, and I must say we’ve really been enjoying tri-tip of late smoke/grilled on a pellet rig at 250 to target temps and rested for 15 minutes before slicing…

2 tbsp sichuan peppercorns
2 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1/4 cup avocado or olive oil
3 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce

2-3 pound tri-tip

Toast the peppercorns and seeds until fragrant and slightly darkened, cool and grind. Combine spices with the oil, oyster sauce, and fish sauce, pour into a large resealable bag, add the meat, turning to coat, and throw in the fridge overnight (at least 4 hours).

When ready to cook, let tri-tip rest at room temp for an hour.

Grill over medium-high (indirect) heat to an internal temp of 128 to 132 for medium rare; rest for 15 minutes before cutting. Alternatively smoke-grill on pellet grill at 250 to internal temps above (about 75 minutes typically for us).

Slice across the grain (don’t forget the grain runs on different angles in each “wing” of the tri-tip) and serve with your favorite sauce. I’ll post our version of the tiger bite sauce mentioned above (and seen in several images) next week.

Hot damn, this one’s really good.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Smoked Santa Maria Tri-Tip

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As we’ve all plowed through the recent holiday weekend, which some might (erroneously in fact) argue is the peak of “the grilling season” in the States, we find ourselves settling into a nice routine of grilling several outstanding proteins every week and enjoying them, most often with a cool, flavorful, refreshing salad over the following days.

Recently we’ve been playing around with tri-tip, a somewhat unique cut of meat that is kinda’ve of a cross between a largish steak and a smallish roast; my butcher buddies argue that it’s really a roast cut from the lower part of the sirloin, so it shares some of the (lesser marbled and chewier) characteristics of sirloin steaks.

Most tri-tips you’ll run across today have their generous fat caps and silver skin already trimmed for you, weighing in somewhere in the 2-3 pound range most often; untrimmed they can run close to 5 pounds.

Steve Raichlen in his ginormous book BBQ USA has a nifty, and fairly detailed explanation of the tri-tip’s apparently indisputable ties to Santa Maria, California; if you’re into food history it’s a great read with Raichlen’s typical dry humor woven in nicely.

The rub recipe below is adapted from Raichlen’s suggestion of the classic Santa Maria rub his travels and research unearthed years ago, though I think it’s much better with a bit more cracked pepper and the Mexican oregano. And don’t be put off by what appears to be a hefty dose of granulated garlic in the rub, it melts in nicely and doesn’t overpower the flavors at all.

Of note, we’ve grilled this recipe over live fire for what seems like forever (red oak is the traditional wood of choice in Santa Maria), though of late we’ve taken to smoking this one at 225 until it’s 125-130 and searing in butter in a cast iron pan to crisp up the exterior, and keeping the interior a delightful, and delicious, medium rare.

The classic Santa Maria salsa served with this is a bit unusual as salsas go, but it’s damned good – I’ll share that recipe next week…

1 tbsp freshly cracked black pepper
2 tsp good coarse salt
2 tsp granulated garlic (or garlic powder)
1-2 tsp dried rosemary, crumbled
1 tsp dried Mexican oregano

1 tri-tip, 2-3 pounds, trimmed of fat cap and silver skin

Prepare the rub and generously season the tri-tip on all sides; then rest in the fridge for a minimum of an hour up to overnight.

For a smoked, pellet grill, low and slow cook, fire your grill/smoker to 225, and cook until reaching an internal temperature of 125 to 130 for medium rare (135-140 for medium).

Pull and sear in butter (or oil of choice) in cast iron quickly on your stove/grill to crisp and brown up the tri-tip, looking for a finished temp of 135 for medium rare, 145 for medium. Rest for 15 minutes, then slice thinly against the grain (don’t forget there are two grain directions in a tri-tip!).

For a standard, live-fire grill cook, cook for roughly 10 minutes per side to reach the medium rare temps above; pull and rest and serve as per above.

Next week I’ll share the classic Santa Maria salsa that is often served with this delightful protein.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Ancho and Chipotle Glazed Beef Short Ribs

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Now that we’re beginning to see a hint of cooler fall weather, and inspired by some great recipes our friend Chef Libby in Austin has been sharing of late, we’ve been experimenting for weeks now with chile pepper based salsas and sauces to flavor up all sorts of dishes.

This recipe is a great example. A few weeks ago Libby and I were chatting about a recipe close to this one that showed up in Bon Appetit’s feed. We agreed their version was good, but was missing something; I thought it needed a deeper, fruit-like flavor note that anchos bring to the table.

Libby tried several different peppers (including guajillo and dried Californias by report) as well, though ended up agreeing with me that the ancho addition was the home run, and she also (being a Southern chef and knowing her catering audience in Austin very well) add just a bit of molasses too.

Hardcore keto folks will of course gasp at the inclusion of brown sugar (and the molasses), though I tend to agree with Mark Sisson that the occasional inclusion of any sweetener in a marinade or glaze isn’t in any way going to break the “carb bank” and disrupt your nutritional ketosis. Of course you can leave it out and rely on the natural sweetness of the anchos too.

This recipe was developed by the team at Bon Appetit apparently specifically for grilled short ribs, though we (and Libby) think it’s great on flank, skirt, and hanger steaks – all tougher, deeply-flavored cuts that need to be grilled just to medium rare and rested, then thinly sliced across the grain with care. Though I haven’t done so yet, I can imagine the sauce playing very well with pork tenderloin or chops, and I’ll probably make a batch around Thanksgiving when there’s a turkey on the menu…

The short ribs are a great call, and made a wonderful taco for these images, and even better bacon-wrapped poppers the next day.

6 garlic cloves, toasted (see below)
3-4 canned chipotles in adobo
1 presoaked, stemmed and seeded ancho Chile (2 if small)
1 tbsp chipotle adobo sauce
1/4 cup, scant, dark brown sugar (packed)
2 tbsp plain distilled white vinegar
1 tsp molasses, optional
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup water

1 and 1/2 pounds boneless beef short ribs (thicker the better)
1-2 tsp kosher salt
Optional: pinch of ground cumin, pinch of ancho chile powder
Avocado oil

To serve
Slaw of your choice – try this one
Red onion, cut into wedges through intact the root end
Avocado, small dice
Lime quarters
Chopped cilantro
Sliced radishes
Tortillas (gluten free or not)

Toast the garlic until charred, peel, then toss in the blender or food processor with the chipotles, adobo, soaked ancho chile, brown sugar, vinegar, molasses, kosher salt, pepper, and water. Blend until smooth, then set aside.

Fire the grill, and rub the short ribs with a 1 teaspoon or so of kosher salt, the optional cumin and ancho chile powder, then drizzle with the avocado oil and rub everything in.

Now grill the short ribs, rotating every 2 minutes or so, until crisp and browned – roughly 8-10 minutes. Now slather all sides of the ribs with the slather, turning every minute or so, for another 3-4 minutes until shiny and glazed.

Pull the meat, rest 15-20 minutes (finish the toppings), and grill the onion wedges in the meantime (trim off the root end when finished to separate the rings).

Now cut the short ribs into 1/3-inch pieces against the grain, and build that short rib taco drizzling a bit more of the adobo slather on to finish.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: (Primal) Texas Style Picadillo

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Growing up in the panhandle of Texas back in the day I had several friends whose families made picadillo routinely at home; we ate it in tacos, in big bowls over rice on cold, blustery days, in tortilla wraps, and even stirred into scrambled eggs now and again.

With the official transition to astrological fall this week, it’s time to begin to rotate some tasty soups, stews, chiles, and picadillo onto the menu.

Picadillo (according to the experts and food historians) claims its roots in a number of latin American countries, though a Filipino residency mate argued that his version from back home was the very best. Being from the Southwest and unabashedly heavily biased toward Tex-Mex and the hodge-podge of culinary history that makes up Texas cuisine, I tend to think of the picadillo we’re used to enjoying as a dish originating in Mexico and other countries on further south.

Picadillo is one of those simple, almost peasant foods that varies from region to region and family to family, and the version below should as always be considered a simple framework to start from.

We’ve tweaked the version I remember from days in the Panhandle to make it more Primal and healthy eating friendly, easy changes like grass-fed ground beef, healthier oil, and sweet potatoes instead of the classic russet. We also think it’s immeasurably better with just a bit of dried ground ancho chile powder in the skillet, and my favorite dish from years ago was dressed up a little with the addition of a handful of peas (though you’ll see raisins in a number of recipes floating around out there as well.

Don’t forget a bit of chopped cilantro, diced avocado, and a spritz of fresh lime juice at bare minimum to finish this one off…

1 lb grass-fed ground beef
2 tbsp avocado oil, divided
1-2 sweet potatoes of choice, peeled, 3/4-inch pieces
1 medium onion, small dice
1 medium poblano, stemmed, seeded, small dice
2-3 plum tomatoes, cored, chopped
3-4 garlic cloves, minced
1-2 serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded, finely chopped OR
1-2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, finely chopped
1 and 1/2 tsp kosher salt or 1 tbsp Diamond Crystal salt
1-2 tsp ground cumin
1-2 tsp ground dried ancho pepper (optional)
1 tsp freshly ground pepper
2 cups chicken stock or broth
1/2 cup peas, optional

To Finish
1/3 cup chopped cilantro, leaves and small stems
Sliced radishes
Diced fresh avocado
Crumbled cotija cheese (feta plays well too)
Fresh lime juice

Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; now sauté the beef until browned but not fully cooked through (6-7 minutes). Remove the beef to a small bowl using a slotted spoon.

Back the heat down to medium, add the rest of the oil, and quickly sauté the potatoes until just beginning to brown (3-4 minutes); remove to a small plate and set aside.

Now add the onions, diced peppers, garlic, salt, cumin, and black and ancho peppers, stirring occasionally, and cook until the vegetables are just beginning to tenderize (4-5 minutes).

Add the beef (and any juices) back in, along with the stock and peas, and simmer for 15 minutes. Now add the potatoes back in, stir to mix, and simmer another 5-7 minutes. Now add the chopped tomatoes and simmer another 3-5 minutes.

You’ll know you’re there when the beef is fully cooked, the potatoes are just tender, and just about all of the liquid has evaporated off. Taste for salt and cumin, stir in the cilantro at service, and finish with whatever add-ons you have on hand.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Greek Marinated Grilled Flank Steak

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As I shared on Monday when chatting about our favorite tzatziki recipe here, my lovely wife and I came a bit late to enjoy Greek cuisine as much as we do today.

We both come from families who, from a home cooking and menu perspective, ate fairly routine American fare during our years at home decades ago; we both grew up in Texas so adventurous dining back in the day was typically either barbecue or Tex-Mex. Heck, I’m not even sure there was a Greek diner or restaurant in my panhandle home growing up…

Later my wife and I lived in Salt Lake City for years, which happens to host a surprisingly robust Greek community, and one of my former business partners and mentors introduced us to the wonders of cooking (reasonably) authentic Greek cuisine at home – and this wonderful Greek salad we’ve served for years (including again this past week!).

A couple of weeks ago we had occasion to eat at one of our favorite Greek eateries here in the DFW metro to celebrate a small but meaningful life victory, we enjoyed a dish we’d not savored in a while – a simple but incredibly delicious marinated and grilled flank steak.

I of course pestered the restaurant team for their recipe, and while they didn’t provide all the details, it was enough to guide my research, which included time on the phone with friend and Chef Libby in Austin.

After a bit of experimenting and tweaking, this is the recipe we’ve dialed in for this Greek Marinated Grilled Flank Steak.

Living in Texas as we do, I often reach for skirt or hanger steaks when preparing fajitas (which granted we enjoy often); it’s been a pleasure to cook with flank again as well – flank shares the same deep, beefy flavor as skirt (and hangers), the same robust tooth when cooked just so, and yet is delightfully tender when thinly sliced across the grain. And compared to some of the other cuts we’ve posted recipes for over the years, grass-fed flank can feel like a true bargain too.

Plan ahead for this one as you’ll really want to let the flank marinate for 24-hours, though 8 works in a pinch. And you can argue if you must, but this one begs to cooked to just medium, rested for 8 to 10 minutes, and thinly sliced across the grain.

2 to 3 lb flank steak
1 cup EVOO or avocado oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup coconut aminos or tamari
2 tbsp fresh chopped mint
1 tbsp lemon zest
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dill weed (dried)
1 tsp fresh ground pepper
1/2 tsp salt

This one couldn’t be easier.

Whisk the marinade ingredients in a medium bowl, pour over the flank (I prefer to cut our flank into 3 to 4-inch wide pieces prior or marinating) and place in a resealable bag or your favorite non-plastic marinating container.

Marinate for preferably 24 hours, but at least 8, turning the flank occasionally to make sure all sides are well coated and exposed to the marinade.

Fire the grill, drain the flank while the grill is preheating, then grill to your desired finish – though flank begs to be cooked just medium rare, rested for 10 minutes, and then sliced thinly across the grain.

Great hot or cold, make sure you have tzatziki on hand for your Greek feast.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Reverse Seared Cowboy Ribeye Steak

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Most of us who enjoy a nice steak now and again have looked at that thick-cut, pristine ribeye sitting in all its glory on the counter and debated what cooking method might yield the very best tasting outcome on that given day.

Should I fire the grill (two zones of course), break out the sous vide circulator and cast iron, or sear it on the stove top?

Thin-cut steaks, and for my purposes today I’m talking about anything cut an inch or less thick, are a pretty easy cook (relatively speaking); they cook fairly quickly regardless of method and in fact pan-sear quite easily.

The thicker-cut steak(s) pose an interesting challenge for the carnivore; sometimes you nail it, but just as often your masterpiece is too rare or even worse, overdone, dry, and chewy.

We’ve shared before that we’re fans of sous vide to cook thick-cut proteins, using BPA-free plastic immersion bags of course, followed by a quick sear in cast-iron over high heat. We’ve been using that technique routinely now for a couple of years, though my son Jake in Montana recently challenged me to re-visit an old technique – the reverse sear.

We’ve used the reverse sear method to cook bone-in rib roasts for years now (what a great holiday treat), and have been cooking thick-cut, bone-in ribeyes this way for a few months (my favorite local market calls this particular cut pictured a cowboy ribeye – the rib bone is left in but it’s not as long as the over-marketed tomahawk steak). I have to admit, the results are amazing, and consistently produce the best steak the home cook can easily prepare at home.

The most critical caveat is that this method works best for thicker cuts, at least 1 and 1/2 inches and even better at 2 inches (or more).

There are several advantages to using the reverse sear method. Low and slow heat prevents overcooking and offers more control, and the warm oven dries the surface of your steak allowing for a better and more effective sear at the end. The reverse sear method is perfect for dialing in a medium-rare or medium steak, preserving more tender pink meat with smaller gray cooked (or overcooked) edges that any other technique.

Reverse sear shines with thicker cuts, allows for creation of a prize-winning crust when you do sear – use preheated cast iron and be creative with your fat (try ghee or bacon drippings!). And the fond and drippings in the pan can be used to whip up a tasty pan-sauce as well. And by the way, while not every one happens to have a sous vide circulator on the shelf, most of us have an oven handy.

The process really couldn’t be easier. Preheat the oven to 275 F and line a baking sheet with foil, then place a wire rack over the foil (allows hot air to circulate all around the steak).

Pat the surface of the steak(s) dry and liberally coat with salt and pepper, then place on the wire rack and slide into the oven.

Advice from steak experts varies as to when you need to start checking the internal temperature of the steak; for the steaks I’m routinely sourcing for our kitchen, I typically give them 20 minutes in the oven at 275F before starting to check internal temperatures with an accurate meat thermometer.

While it may sound like heresy, for the oven part of this process, you’re looking for temps of 90-95F for medium-rare and 100-105F for medium. Think about it, you’re not cooking the steak completely in the oven, and it’ll finish cooking during the sear to follow.

Over high heat on the stove top, and using a high smoke point oil (avocado oil, ghee, etc), sear the steaks for 2-3 minutes per side until the desired internal temp is reached: 120-122F for medium-rare and 126-128F for medium. We like to quickly sear the edges as well.

It’s vital that you rest the steak(s) for 10 minutes or so after searing to allow carryover cooking to finish these proteins perfectly (internal temps will rise another 5-10 degrees).

If you’ve not reverse seared steaks yet, give this method a spin – you’ll come back to it time and time again.

Enjoy.

the Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: Instant-Pot Korean Beer Braised Brisket

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Those that follow my recipes here on the Older Bolder Life consistently have seen that we’ve been leaning often of late to some of the flavors of classic Korean cuisine.

My wife and I have truly been enjoying the spicy tang of gochujang in particular lately, and Korean dried chile flakes – gochugaru – are nothing like what most of us in the States have grown up using for dried chile flakes.

One other confession might be appropriate here; we’ve been very slow to come around to the Instant-Pot craze. The primary advantage of the Instant-Pot is time; that time savings is accomplished by pressure cooking foods more or less like your mom and grandmother did. Granted the Instant-Pot is packaged up nicely with a lot of electronic bells and whistles; I’d just never purchased one as I preferred to braise and slow cook using classic, if also time-intensive, methods.

Back a few weeks ago my elderly mother gave us an Instant-Pot she’d purchased on the advice of another family member; it was one of the larger units and was in fact too heavy at 18 pounds for her to even pick up.

After combing around for a tasty recipe to run a test cook or two with, I came across something fairly close to this Instant-Pot Korean Beer Braised Brisket, which is amazingly close to my favorite braised brisket recipe from childhood with the added boost of gochujang, gochugaru, and a host of Korean-inspired spices.

After cooking through this one several times, I’m not a huge fan of sautéing in the Instant-Pot; at least by my hand it was difficult to get a truly good sear on the brisket before the longer cook – I’ll still sear on the stove in a hot skillet.

That said, when cooked and chilled overnight and reheated the next day, this brisket slices like a dream, is packed with amazing Korean-inspired flavors, and is stunningly good doused in the pan juices (reduce the sauce down by about half) with a flavorful cauliflower rice dish alongside.

And I have to admit, with just a 90-minute cook under pressure, and a prep and set up that is easy peasy, this recipe is a keeper.

4 to 5 pound beef brisket, cut into 4 or 5 pieces
1 1/2 tbsp dried red chile flakes, gochugaru is best
1 1/2 tbsp good sweet paprika
1 tbsp kosher salt
1 tsp fresh ground pepper

2-3 tbsp avocado, olive, or coconut oil
1 large onion, small dice
4-5 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 tsp fresh ginger, minced

1/3 cup gochujang (Sriracha in a pinch)
2 tbsp ketchup (use this one)
2 tbsp tamari or coconut aminos
2 tsp good fish sauce
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 cup lager style beer

Optional
1-2 tbsp honey or dark brown sugar

Cut the brisket to size and rub with the Chile flakes, paprika, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours (shoot for 12 hours plus).

Either using a large skillet or the Instant-Pot sauté function, heat a tbsp of oil over medium heat and brown the brisket pieces on all sides (add more oil as needed); then set meat aside. Add another tbsp of oil, then sauté the onion until beginning to soften and caramelize around the edges, then add the garlic and ginger and sauté for another 90 seconds.

Now stir in the gochujang, ketchup, tamari or aminos, fish sauce, sesame oil, and beer (and return to the Instant-Pot if using a skillet). Add the beef, seal, and cook on high for 90 minutes. Let the pressure release naturally for 20 minutes, then release remaining pressure manually.

Transfer the brisket to a platter and cover; now simmer the sauce for 15 to 20 minutes until reduced by at least half. Skim the fat and serve alongside the tasty brisket (sliced or pulled).

Enjoy.

The Older Bolder Life Friday Feast: 1015 Onion Marinated Skirt Steak

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Having had the pleasure of living in several different regions of the country during the past two decades, we’ve witnessed first hand the regional battles to claim the title of the Nation’s (if not the world’s) sweetest sweet onion.

Texas has its 1015’s, Washington the Walla Walla, Georgia and the South tout their Vidalias, New Mexico offers Nu-Mex and Carzalias, California the Sweet Imperial, and even Chilean farms grow the Oso Sweet.

They’re all delicious, and we happen to think the very best one is the one we can grab fresh at at hand; everyone has their favorite, probably driven as much by regional tradition and seasonal availability than anything else…

Onions and other alliums bring so much in terms of taste to the flavor table entire books could be written on the subject, and I’m sure there are “onion experts” roaming the culinary plain today, trying to aid we mere mortals in the kitchen as we strive to up our onion game.

Being good Texicans, we’re fond of skirt steak recipes, and this 1015 Onion Marinated Skirt Steak has become one of our favorites of late. Skirt steak, or its kissing cousin the hanger steak, cooked medium-rare very quickly over high heat then sliced thinly across the grain is a treat that every good carnivore should savor at least once a month.

The sweet onion here, grated into submission and combined with a little acid works miracles to flavor this humble cut of meat; all you need otherwise is some good salt and fresh ground pepper before and after the grill and you’ll be in carnivore heaven.

Lately I’ve been slicing a red jalapeño or Fresno chile into the marinade, and note that some folks feel this prep needs a little additional sweetness – we don’t add any brown sugar or honey to this marinade given the sweetness of the 1015s, but you certainly can. And finally, swapping the vinegar for fresh lime juice (grate some lime zest in too) swings this one a little more toward Tex-Mex and is damned tasty too.

See you at the grill tomorrow.

2 pounds trimmed skirt steak, cut into 4 to 5-inch pieces
1 medium sweet onion, 1015s here in Texas
2 tbsp (scant) distilled white vinegar
2 tbsp (scant) avocado oil
1 tbsp (or more) good salt
1 tbsp (or more) fresh ground pepper

Optional
1 sliced red jalapeño or Fresno chile
1 tbsp brown sugar or honey
Lime zest and fresh lime juice for the vinegar

Grate the onion, then combine with the vinegar, avocado oil, and optional pepper slices and sweetener if using; pour into a large resealable bag or your favorite marinating container.

Season the trimmed skirt steak generously with salt and pepper, then add to the bag and turn/squish around to coat the steak well. Throw in the fridge for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.

When ready to cook, fire the grill (medium-high), drain the meat and pat dry. Grill, turning once, until well-marked and medium rare – note this won’t take long with skirt. Pull the meat, let it rest 8-10 minutes, then thinly slice against the grain.

Serve with a sprinkling of really good salt, a spritz of lime juice, and maybe a few chopped chives chives, parsley, or cilantro.

Enjoy.